Place info

Little Babylon

(38 routes)

pdf guide can be purchased and downloaded from http://alpineclub.org.nz/product/cleddau-valley-cragging

  • West

    Aspect

New Zealand map
Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
West

pdf guide can be purchased and downloaded from http://alpineclub.org.nz/product/cleddau-valley-cragging

Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
24
0
 

Left of Upskirt Dreams.

Owen Davies Feb 2013

26
0
  Far left of crag. Traverse in from left and climb behind the waterfall.

Zdenek Racuk

25 ,23
0
20m
 
  1. Short and crimpy.
  2. One hard move.

Troy Mattingly, Thomas Adamson, Jon Sedon, 2007

25
3
25m
  Climb the long face to the cave.

Brooke Sandahl Bruce Dowrick, 2007

21
1.02
9m
4X bolts
  Nice sequencey climbing with hard last move to jug.

Erin Stewart 2014

23 ,27
1.02
22m
 
  1. Cruxy.
  2. Extension.

Al Richie 2007.Derek Thatcher 2008.

23 ,25
1.02
24m
 
  1. Everybody's warmup.
  2. Extension. Wander up ledges to hard bulge.

Jon Sedon, Max Farr 2007

27
2.01
30m
  Climb first pitch of Rua Tahi and the head off rightwards up the hanging slab to the top of Tantalus.

Derek Thatcher 2013

28
2.01
30m
  The hard version of Traverse of the Gods. After first pitch of RT climb hard boulder at top of Thor's Hammer.

Derek Thatcher, 2013.

35
0
 
34
0
18m
9X bolts
  Same start as Xerxes, after crux do hard boulder problem.

Project

30
3
20m
10X bolts
  Climb the diagonal line. Power endurance.

Derek Thatcher, 2008.

29
0
9X bolts
 

Bruce Dowrick

29
1.02
18m
  Start up No Country and cross into top of Thor's Hammer.

Jon Sedon, 2008

29
3
18m
9X bolts
  Powerful climbing on big holds.

Matt Evrard

33
3
30m
17X bolts
  Climb Hercules and rest then up headwall through bulges to the left of Xena.

Derek Thatcher, 2013

33
3
30m
16X bolts
  Climb Hercules then straight up through the big roof. Equipped by Derek Thatcher.

Chris Muench, 2008

29
3
30m
  A long journey.

Thomas Adamson, 2008

35
2.01
30m
  One of the first lines bolted. Start up ITP to very hard boulder and dyno, then do crux of Xena.

Project

24
1.02
18m
  Up then traverse left.

Tom Hoyle, 2007.FFA Thomas Adamson 2007.

26
0
18m
  Start up ITP and link into Jugular.

Kester Brown, 2008.

25
1.02
18m
  Up the Jugs to single ring. Better to finish at Moses anchor.

Thomas Adamson, 2007.FFA Max Far, 2007.

27 ,30
2.01
26m
2X bolts
 
  1. Climb up to little hollow and then left out undercling band.
  2. Extension to the trapeze.

Jon Sedon, 2007

29
0
  Moses and link in Giving Tree.

Mayan Smith-Gobat, 2008

31
0
25m
  Climb up to left side of prow via a good rest.

Thomas Adamson, 2007.FFA Mayan Smith-Gobat, 2008.

33
0
 

Derek Thatcher

30
3
23m
 

Thomas Adamson, 2007.FFA Derek Thatcher, 2007.

32
2.01
27m
  Extension to Cyrus. Alright rest at Cyrus anchor then fingery V10.

Derek Thatcher, 2009.

32
2.01
25m
  Climb through the red streak.

Derek Thatcher, 2009.

29
0
 

Bruce Dowrick, 2007.FFA Jonathan Clearwater, 2008.

27
2.01
 

Bruce Dowrick, 2007.

28
2.01
 

Jon Sedon, 2007.

28
0
  Climb multiple bulge features just right of Hellboy.

Zac Orme

26
1.02
 

Bruce Dowrick, 2012.

26
0
 

Jon Sedon, 2012.

Places

Actions
Wall Top Cave (3 routes)

Comments

Comments

if only there was a colour coded route topo to gaze and wonder upon climbing all the amazing routes this crag has to offer....

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