HomeNZSouth IslandFiordlandDarran MountainsBarrier Knob

North East Face

(10 routes)

Place info

North East Face

(10 routes)

The North East Face of Barrier Knob predominantly features high quality slab climbing on very good, water-worn rock.
A pdf topo of routes on the face, and nearby Quiet Earth Slab, can be downloaded at http://www.divshare.com/download/1091491-9f4

  • North East

    Aspect

New Zealand map
Type: 
Face
Aspect: 
North East

The North East Face of Barrier Knob predominantly features high quality slab climbing on very good, water-worn rock.
A pdf topo of routes on the face, and nearby Quiet Earth Slab, can be downloaded at http://www.divshare.com/download/1091491-9f4

Access: 

The north-east face of Barrier Knob can be accessed in two different ways:
If you are coming directly to the face from Homer Hut or Barrier Knob it is best gained via the Barrier Knob-Barrier Peak Col. From Barrier Knob, descend to the col, and then down-climb moderate slabs to the névé at the base of the face. To get to the Quiet Earth area of the wall; either don crampons and scoot along the névé, or skirt the bottom of the neve via rolling water-worn slabs.
To access the face from the Labyrinth area of the north face; traverse east over rolling, slabby terrain and scramble over a low angle ridge/arête that divides the two faces. Gain height once on the east side of the ridge to access the Quiet Earth section of the north-east face.
Quiet Earth follows a distinctive quartz streak in the centre of the wall.

Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
1
16 ,18 ,20
2.01
125m
21X bolts
Natural gear required
 
  1. From single belay ring trend left up easy slabs past 2 bolts. Gradually diagonal back right and up ever steppening scallopped wall past lots of bolts to belay.An awsome pitch on perfect rock.
  2. Traverse left along ledge past bolt, then up short wall past 2 bolts to belay.
  3. Climb narrow flakey wall past 3 bolts. Veer left below overhang and up flake crack to bolt, step onto face, climb up smears and knobs past bolt. Move back left to slab and follow this on left hand side past 3 bolts. At top of arete traverse right to belay.

Mark Watson & Kristen Foley 2007
2
25 ,22 ,24
1.02
110m
19X bolts
Natural gear required
 
  1. Start at single belay ring. Up right facing flake. Step left to bolt and climb upto thin crimping and tricky footwork. Move right to wire placements, back left and up past bolt. Trend right on easy ground to belay.
  2. Move left from belay, and diagonally up to cam placements ( can be damp). Then up past 2 bolts to corner. Layback and step up corner (crux) past 2 more bolts, exiting to the left after the 5th bolt. Up the blunt arete to belay
  3. Climb up face and flake past 3 bolts. Step right at 3rd bolt and move up and back left to 4th bolt. Delicate and crimpy moves (crux) lead to the 5th bolt (Loose flake). Climb easier ground to ramp (bolt) and up to overhung rock. Step up onto block and climb slab past 2 bolts and RP placement to belay.

Mark Watson & Kristen Foley 2007
3
18
1.02
  Six pitches. On the slabby face just down from the col with Barrier, this route is easily reached from the Barrier Knob - Barrier Col.

Calum Hudson, Rob Turner, 1987.
18 , 16 , 17 , 16 , 14
0
220m
Natural gear required
 
  1. A direct line on the centre of the north-east face of Barrier Knob. Starts approximately 20m left of Quiet Earth on the left side and lowest point of the slabby ‘bulge’ in the face. . From the névé climb up to shallow horizontal overlap. Turn this at left end and climb right-trending grooves and slabs for a few metres before heading straight up to belay.
  2. Climb up slabs and into prominent left-facing corner. Up this to a large belay bollard and ledge.
  3. Climb beautiful textured rock up shallow corner on plllar, to below mossy corner. Step left and up through steepening to easy ground. Belay in crack.
  4. Climb right side of wall up featured, flaky rock (loose in places) to a belay.
  5. Head left and then up final part of headwall, aiming for two prominent blocks on the ridge. Belay amongst blocks on ridgeline.

Tom Riley, Mark Watson, Allan Uren, March 2006.
4
15 , 13
0
105m
Natural gear required
 
  1. Climbed as an access route for the bolting of Quiet Earth and Sleeping Dogs. Approximately 20m left of the prominent white quartz streak of Quiet Earth. Climb discontinuous, slabby corners and ledges up and slightly left. Good protection. Belay on ledge.
  2. Climb up and diagonally right across pocky slabs to broken ground above the second pitch overlaps of Quiet Earth. Pro scarce. Belay as for pitch two of Quiet Earth.

Mark Watson, Tom Riley, March 2006.
5
21 , 21
2.01
100m
14X bolts
Natural gear required
 
  1. A classic two pitch route with diverse climbing on excellent rock. Carry wires and 1 set of cams to #4. An excellent rope-stretching pitch following a prominent quartz streak. Start on the right side of the streak and follow the bolts, crossing to the left side of the streak below the steepening. Climb the vertical section (underclings) on its left and then up the slab, following bolts and streak to a belay just above an overlap.
  2. Move left from the belay and up past two bolts (some natural pro) towards a narrow left-facing overlap/corner. Place cams and bridge up (crux) past a couple more bolts and tricky ground on slab. Continue up following bolts and occasional natural gear to belay.

Mark Watson, Tom Riley, March 2006.
6
22
2.01
50m
7X bolts
Natural gear required
  A full 50m pitch of tricky and interesting slab climbing. 7 bolts. Take wires and small cams (1/2-3/4 essential). Start 5m right of Quiet Earth at belay bolt. Climb up and right, past right end of small overlap and follow technical, slabby ground (crux) up past bolts to prominent diagonal overlap (cam placement). Move left over lower part of overlap and continue up easing ground and past ledge before final section of steep slab to belay.

Tom Riley, Mark Watson, March 2006.
7
15
0
50m
Natural gear required
  Gain by scrambling right up slabby ramp to a belay point where corner steepens. Bridge up vague corner system past unusual bulgy rock. Terrain eases below the left end of prominent mossy overlap/roof-line (cam placements), traverse right to bolt belay of Goodbye Pork Pie.

Mark Watson, Tom Riley, March 2006.
8
23
3
50m
10X bolts
Natural gear required
  50m. 10 bolts. Carry small to medium cams and wires. A stunning pitch of technical slab climbing on featured rock. Start off ledge and climb straight up for a few metres following bolts. Trend diagonally up and right utilising dimples and tiny holds (crux), to right hand end of overlap. Continue straight up, and with devious moves gain scoop. Keep following prow past bolts and occasional natural pro placements to belay.

Mark Watson, Tom Riley, March 2006.
0
Natural gear required
  The route takes a line immediately right of a pronounced grassy rib. Climb through initial bluffs onto the rib then right toward the summit of Barrier Knob.

Pete Glasson, Ken Calder, Al Smith, Mar 1972.
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies
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