Natural pro requiredNamed after the toki (adze) the Maori God Tu-te-raki-whanoa used when he
hacked up the rock to create the towering cliffs of Milford Sound, this route
gains the prominent right-leaning diagonal crack that slashes across the
middle of Sinbad Wall, generally getting harder as it goes. Consider the
grades provisional.
A direct start or linking pitch 2 direct
to pitch 5 would be worthwhile additions.
Start at a right leading ramp, just left of the bright green splotch, clip a
bolt, then start jamming and quest on upwards. The first two pitches were
established some time ago by Derek Thatcher and friends, then Te Hamo heads
rightwards. Every pitch at least two (2/3) star so whole route given 3 stars.
Descent: this climb is continuously steep so tag a second rope from top of
pitch 2 to the top of pitch 4. From the top of the route you can back clip
pitches 7-5, then use the tag line to double rope rap to the top of pitch 2.
A 55m rap from here will land you back on the ground.
- P1
- 22
- 30m
- 1
- Trad
22, 30m, Excellent jamming up this classic crack pitch. First equipped and climbed by Derek Thatcher & Mayan Smith-Gobat.
- P2
- 27
- 25m
- 3
- Trad
27, 25m, Traverse up and right into corner then span wide tricky moves past first bolt and face climb past two more bolts to belay ledge. First equipped and climbed by Derek Thatcher & Mayan Smith-Gobat.
- P3
- 24
- 27m
- 3
- Trad
24, 27m, Rising traverse. To ease descent, trail a tag line or second rope from here to the top of pitch four.
- P4
- 25
- 27m
- 4
- Trad
25, 27m, Follow bolts on thin flakes, pull through overlap and continue up widening crack to ledge.
- P5
- 26
- 15m
- 5
26, 15m, Short, steep, fun!
- P6
- 27
- 20m
- 2
- Trad
27, 20m, Crank crux between bolts, then attack the crack.
- P7
- 28
- 30m
- 5
- Trad
28, 30m, Dynamic crux; sustained crack to finish
- P8
- 25
- P9
- 31
- P10
- 24
- P11
- 20
