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The Vortex

Grade
5,III
Quality
0
First ascent
R Measures, K Parsons July 2014
Located on
Topo ref
4

10 pitches, tackles the buttress wall to the right of Homer Sapiens, starting up a vegetated gully just right of that route.
P1: Follow the gully up and slightly right to a belay. 30m
P2: Continue in the same line until a small snowfield is reached. 50m
P3: Weave up slabs, limited protection, to a snowfield at the base of a blank buttress. 60m
P4: Make a rising leftwards traverse, then straighten up towards a crack system. 45m
P5: Climb the fractured corner system. 30m
P6: Trend left up blocky steep ground to avoid a loose over- hang. Belay just below the crest of a ridge. 45m
P7: Traverse left for 20m, then up a turfy corner system. 30m P8: Make a leftwards traverse to join the upper part of Homer Sapiens. 55m
P9: Climb easy ground as for Homer Sapiens, then continue direct where that route tends slightly left. 100m
P10: Move left from the belay, and find a way to the ridge, surmounting a series of steep obstacles. 30m


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 5
  • Alpine (Commitment) III

Comments
UUID
 
f96cedeb-0bd3-4382-abee-0109e1161030