Place info

Mt Horrible

(33 routes)

Mt Horrible is a plug of quality basalt very close to Timaru. If you enjoy trad climbing on good pro & sound rock then this is the place for you. The routes are quite short but have an abundance of well-rounded holds and cracks that vary from finger width to semi offwidth.   There are many other unrecorded routes that are shorter, blocky lines on both sides of the main wall. Some of these can be treated as boulder problems.
 
Climbing Notes.
There is no need to contact the landowner before climbing. Just observe the usual courtesies. Expect clean, solid rock with sound gear possibilities. Make sure you take a few quickdraws; a standard rack (a couple of large cams are useful); long slings and a single rope.
The top of the crag is totally flat and user-friendly and the anchors are bomber. Since you can wander around easily between anchors, it is most efficient to set up one rope for descents. 
The first routes are on the far left of the main wall before it gets vegetated or blocky:

  • South

    Aspect

  • 10min

    Walk in

  • 350m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
South
Altitude: 
350m

Mt Horrible is a plug of quality basalt very close to Timaru. If you enjoy trad climbing on good pro & sound rock then this is the place for you. The routes are quite short but have an abundance of well-rounded holds and cracks that vary from finger width to semi offwidth.   There are many other unrecorded routes that are shorter, blocky lines on both sides of the main wall. Some of these can be treated as boulder problems.
 
Climbing Notes.
There is no need to contact the landowner before climbing. Just observe the usual courtesies. Expect clean, solid rock with sound gear possibilities. Make sure you take a few quickdraws; a standard rack (a couple of large cams are useful); long slings and a single rope.
The top of the crag is totally flat and user-friendly and the anchors are bomber. Since you can wander around easily between anchors, it is most efficient to set up one rope for descents. 
The first routes are on the far left of the main wall before it gets vegetated or blocky:

Access: 

There is no need to contact the landowner before climbing. Please the usual courtesies.

From Timaru:
Just north of the Timaru city centre is an intersection with Wai-iti Rd. Turn right here and drive 4km to Gleniti. Veer left into Claremont Rd and follow this for 7km past Claremont School to Whalebone Corner (intersection with Fairview Rd). Turn left on to Fairview Rd and take the next right, which is Mt Horrible Rd. After 5km, there is a farm gate on the left , as the road flattens out. Park here but please do not obscure the gate access.
From Dunedin:
Turn off just before the Pareora bridge into Pareora River Rd. After 12km, turn right in to Holme Station Bridge Rd. Turn left in to Fairview Rd and travel for 3km before turning left in to Mt Horrible Road (as above).
Cross through the gate and walk along the hedge on your left. Go through another gate. Head slightly right and southwards for the next 500m to the edge of the scarp and over the swampy pond to the big pine trees on the other side of the paddock. Either use the single pine as an abseil anchor or scramble down one of the gullies to the crag.

Walk time: 
10min
NZMS260: 
J39 564 424
Topo50: 
CA19 465 808
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
0
Natural gear required
  The arete to the LHS of the cave

Pete Cleveland 94

14
0
Natural gear required
  2nd crack L of FF cave

Pete Cleveland 94

20
1.02
Natural gear required
  Roof of the Lh access cave. Start R and work your way L into the crack. Entertaining!

Brent Davis

20
0
Natural gear required
  50 R of FF, "20" scratched at the base. A thin and intermiittent crack.

Brent Davis?

14
0
10m
Natural gear required
  10m left of Dipper Mouth graffiti is a shallow gully with a rising lightening crack and a blocky top half.

FA unknown

16
0
10m
Natural gear required
  8m left of Dipper Mouth graffiti climb a left-facing corner crack which turns right-facing at a second small overhang.

FA unknown

16
0
Natural gear required
  A steep crack to the L of the tree.
18
0
Natural gear required
  Start up the wall and gain a wide crack, then climb through blocks exiting on another wide crack.
17
0
Natural gear required
  Bidge and jam your way above the graffiti.
15
0
Natural gear required
  Start behind the broadleaf tree. Climb the easy crack at the LHS of the ledge.
17
0
Natural gear required
  Start behind the broadleaf tree. Climb the roof and crack from the centre of the ledge.
18
0
Natural gear required
  Start behind the broadleaf tree. Easy up to a small ledge, then wide bridging and finger locks enable a move left (crux) to finish. Vegetated at the top – take care to avoid the bush lawyer.
16
0
Natural gear required
  Start by the bush lawyer, climb your way to and up the good crack in the upper wall.
17
0
12m
Natural gear required
 
Start as for Jelly Roll up the hand-crack, but at the break step left to the recessed corner-crack. Climb straight up, with a bit of a stretch through the capping overhang.
17
0
Natural gear required
  The same start as JR, Continue straight up when you reach the block half way up.

John Fraser

JR
17
1.02
12m
Natural gear required
  The original slabby start seems to have been abandoned in favour of the start of Turn To Gold, and is very dirty. For now climb the small corner below the left edge of the large roof, and step across left to the small overhang. Jam the hand-crack to a rest, and then more easily up the corner-crack on the right.
24
1.02
12m
2X bolts
Natural gear required
  climb up face and LH edge linking onto the arete to LLS of H

Tony Rooney

H
23
2.01
12m
Natural gear required
 
Up the thin finger-crack in the seep wall, then onto flared crack.

Dave Fearnley 82

PC
18
2.01
13m
Natural gear required
 
The continous corner.

Andy Cambell

TB
19
2.01
13m
Natural gear required
 
Up finger-crack tendin R to small ledge, then L-wards to the scoop exiting up the wide crack

Andy Cambell

22
1.02
14m
Natural gear required
 
Boulder up the arete, tending L into the small crack, then back onto the arete to finnish

John Howard

SJJ
16
1.02
14m
Natural gear required
  Up the corner to the off-width crack, then move R onto easier territory.
17
0
Natural gear required
  The arete ot the RHS of SSJ, rejioning after 4m. No pro!
GiH
19
0
14m
Natural gear required
  The arete to the LHS of TC. Start up the finger-crackthen trough the roof with the crack.
TC
17
1.02
14m
Natural gear required
  Carry out the trash start onto the block, (twin jam-cracks) then up through easier terrian.
CB
14
1.02
Natural gear required
  Starts behind the tree. Bridge onto ledge then climb the RH facing corner.
BM
18
0
13m
Natural gear required
  Start L of Arch Dig behind a tree to gain the upward-flaring offwidth; then layback on to the arête and up to a small ledge. Step R to finish in the L crack.
AD
17
1.02
12m
Natural gear required
  Up through blocks to the pea-pod, then finnish up the RH crack.
20
0
  The arete and face between AD and W. No Pro!

Luke Newnham

W
19
2.01
12m
Natural gear required
  Ascend through arch, then up hand-crack to ledge, exiting R to the arete with a wide crack.

Andy Cambell

YC
16
0
11m
Natural gear required
  Starts with a nice jam crack which abandons you after a couple of metres (crux). Then it eases into a nice corner-crack. to finish.
18
0
Natural gear required
  Boulder problem up face 2m R of Young Coronary. You have two choices: straight up with no gear for 4-5 metres, or step left a metre or so, place good gear and grunt through over the block. Nice moves in the upper crack follow.

Luke Newnham

20
0
Natural gear required
  50m R of YC. Follow a shallow groove onto a ledge, then use the off-width to gain the above hand-crack to exit.

Lule Newnham

This place appears in: 
Rock Deluxe: South
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