Place info

The Goat Cave

(15 routes)

A cave near the far end of the crag.

  • 300m

    Altitude

New Zealand map
Type: 
Wall
Altitude: 
300m

A cave near the far end of the crag.

Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
HD
19
0
3X bolts
 

Twenty-five metres right is a large cave with several routes. About five metres left of the cave

Gently overhanging black wall with three bolts and anchors. A thin start leads to steeper ground with bigger holds.

Marcus Thomas, 2001.

2B
15
0
10m
3X bolts
1
  Climb just left of the corner and join the arete. Double bolt anchor.

Ben Gibbins 2012

BD
16
0
  Start two metres left of Ballerina make your way up trending slightly leftwards across the slabby wall to an anchor on the lip.

Alisa Woodruff, 2013

Ba
19
0
4X bolts
 

Twenty-five metres right is Goat Cave. Found just left of the Goat Cave.

Climb straight up the steep wall and arĂȘte. move diagonally right to the anchor.

Tony Burnell, 2013

Ea
20
0
4X bolts
3
  Climb a steep juggy wall past a bolt to the right and up to a small roof. Pull through onto a slabby section (dirty and poor rock), and climb on to a short arete below the roof. Move right to clip the last bolt, which is totally hidden about a metre below the finish, and pull over for a surprisingly painless exit. Anchor rings. .

Lindsay Main, 2000

MB
18
1.02
5X bolts
2
  At the left end of the cave. Haul yourself up a line of jugs on an overhanging wall with three bolts, then go slightly right to finish up the arete. Five bolts and anchor bolts without rings. .

Alex Palman, 1999

Sh
22
1.02
6X bolts
4
  Start as for Slothful but continue directly over the bulging roof, continue up the corner above to a combined anchor with MB.

Tony Burnell, 2013

Sl
21
2.01
5X bolts
3
  A metre right, follows a right-trending crack at the edge of the cave. Pull up on pockets or brittle holds to a ledge, and move rightward following the crack to jugs on the lip, then easy to the anchors.

Lindsay Main, 2000

26
0
5X bolts
2
  A Jon Sedon project from way back. Start climbing on the obvious graffiti towards large huecos, hard under-cling moves make way to sharp crimps and to easier climbing above and to anchor.

Troy Mattingley 2008

28
0
12m
5X bolts
  Steep route straight through the centre of goat cave via big hueco 4 m right of Physical Graffiti. Trend left at the top to join last bolt of PG.

Owen Davies Sept 2013

29
0
  Takes the line through the sika covered hueco and through the major part of the roof.

Owen Davies 2013

Bf
27
0
3X bolts
  Start four metres right and follow a right-trending seam.

Max Farr, 1999

Tx
24
2.01
3X bolts
1
  A left trending line under a major roof. Connects to 3rd bolt of Bf.

Jon Sedon, 1999

CBD
24
1.02
2X bolts
1
  From the same start climb straight up past two bolts, then move slightly right to anchor rings.

Jon Sedon, 1999

GP
21
1.02
4X bolts
  There's life in the old dog yet. At the right edge of the cave. Clip the first bolt from the left and boulder up on variable holds to a rest, then climb the arete, finishing right.

Stu Allan, 2000

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