Place info

First Crag

(22 routes)

This is the first part of the crag you will encounter from the track. All Photos are in order from the left of the crag.

  • 15 mins

    Walk in

  • 300m

    Altitude

Type: 
Wall
Altitude: 
300m

This is the first part of the crag you will encounter from the track. All Photos are in order from the left of the crag.

Walk time: 
15 mins
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
14
0
7m
3X bolts
 

20 metres up hill of switch and to the left of the tree.

Follow the arete past three bolts on the right to the double ring bolts at the top [ tricky clipping anchors if you are vertically challenged ! ] .

Cant/West sect of N.Z.A.C 24/3/13.

SW
19
0
3X bolts
 

The first three routes are on a small crag south of the main crag and higher (above the trees).

Three bolts on the right side of an arête. Up to the first two bolts, then reach left and pull up on good small holds on the arête. Clip the third bolt and climb through to the anchor rings a few metres below the top of the cliff.

Mary Butler, 1999.

Ty
17
0
3X bolts
 

Uses the second and third bolts of the previous route. Climb the corner and clip the second bolt, pull on to the ledge and climb the face past the second bolt to the anchor rings.

Mary Butler, 1999.

21
0
3X bolts
2
  Short route between Trinity and Romeo is Bleeding. Three bolts, finishing at the chains in the broken band. Unsure on grade (around 21, 22 mark?), who put this up? Feel free to update.
RB
24
0
3X bolts
 

Steep route up a smooth wall with three bolts. No anchors.

Alex Palman, 1999.

18
0
10m
4X bolts
  Start on trough overhang, then climb just right of the blunt arete.

Cant/ West section of NZAC

15
0
12m
4X bolts
  Start as for Dirt E Boys move left across the ledge or on the overhang below (harder), climb up through the middle of the face to rap stn.

Cant/ West Section of NZAC

16
0
12m
4X bolts
  Clip bolt at overhang move R-wards and onto the ledge then up the wall to the left of the crack, then move back L to the rap stn.

Cant/ West Section NZAC

15
0
23m
8X bolts
  First climb up hill from Huffing Helium. rock up and over small bulge onto ledge for for first clip. Climb straight up to second clip then slightly rightwards for third clip. Follow through groove as the climb steepens up on good positive holds with bolts on your left , then a final small bulge before the double ring bolt anchors at the top.

Cant/ West Section of the N.Z.A.C 2013.

14
0
23m
8X bolts
  Get started on Dirty Boyz, to gain the first small ledge. Veer rightwards following the bolts up the steeping face to the lower off, approx. 1.5m right of DB.

Mike Atkinson 2014

19
0
23m
7X bolts
1
  Start at Huffing Helium, 1st bolt. Traverse left 1.5m, then upwards to the ledge left of HH. Carry on through sloping corner and on to jug hauling to rap station.

Grant Piper 2014

HH
18
1.02
23m
9X bolts
1
  Bridge trough the overhung corner to gain the 1st bolt then move L-wards on to the wall. Once on the ledge go R-wards past the 5th bolt then veer L-wards onto and up the headwall to the belay.

Grant Piper

LS
17
0
1X bolts
Natural gear required
  This route climbs the overhang on the upper part of the cliff, about five metres left at the top of Pinocchio, which can be used as an approach route. Otherwise approach up a grassy slope to the right. Use cams and wires in the obvious V-corner and to the left, then reach right to clip the bolt and pull through the overhangs on huge holds. Very short but good cranking.

Stu Allan, 2000.

BJ
17
0
8m
4X bolts
  2 metres to the right of 'Lip Service' . Traverse left at the ringbolts anchors for 'Geppetto' and up to the first bolt below the overhang,pull through the overhang[crux] and clip the second bolt. Up the arete clipping two more bolts and pull over onto the belay ledge to Double bolt anchor station[no rings but can traverse easily to ring bolts to the right].There is still a final bolt to be installed between last one and anchors so runout to the top as of 12/1/14.

Wellington Section of N.Z.A.C 14/2/13.

Go
17
0
12m
4X bolts
  4 metres to the left of 'Pinocchio'. Climb to small holds and clip first bolt,up and onto ledges for easy clip of next 2 bolts.Good holds on small edge on left and step up and right to clip 4th bolt,finish over small slab to double ring bolt anchors on headwall.Technical at the crux between 3rd and 4th bolt

Canterbury/Westland Section N.Z Alpine Club. 2/2/13.

JC
17
0
8m
4X bolts
  Second pitch of 'Geppetto' and starts at the double ring bolt anchors , clipping the first 2 bolts where there are two options from here , either straight up past the 3rd bolt at grade 17 or stepping right around the block and up easier ground at grade 14 with exposed top out to anchors. 4 bolts in total over 8 metres and double ring bolt anchors at the top.

C/W Section Members 6/2/13.

Po
17
1.02
4X bolts
1
 

On the main cliff, about ten metres into the trees is a short jutting arête with 4 bolts
Approach the arête from the right; then pull up on to the arête with good holds and cruise to the ledge. Double ring bolt anchors were installed by C/W N.Z.A.C Members on 2/2/13.

Stu Allan, 2000.

Gk
16
0
12m
4X bolts
1
  Start off block( 15 ) or use direct start[16] from ground, to clip 1st bolt, after the 2nd bolt move leftwards into the corner and back rightwards on the finishing slab & rap stn.

Canterbury/ Westland Section, NZ Alpine Club.26/1/13.

NG
14
0
12m
5X bolts
  Ascend the vertical start, a balancy reach for the first clip for those shorter or use the 'cheat stone' on the ground. Stand up on the ledge,clip the second bolt then reach for the jugs on the right,vear leftwards towards the third bolt then straight up,past 2 bolts to the anchors.

Canterbury/Westland Section NZ Alpine Club.26/1/13.

GG
13
0
12m
4X bolts
  Climb the featured slab past 3 bolts to ledge. Follow past 4th bolt mantling onto rap stn ledge.If you go left of the bolts at the start add a couple of grades to the climb.

Canterbury/Westland Section NZ Alpine Club.26/1/13.

BT
16
0
9m
3X bolts
  Easy slab climbing to the first bolt then traverse left on to a grassy ledge. From there mantle on to the main ledge above. Double bolt anchor.

Ben Gibbins 2012

TR
15
0
9m
3X bolts
  Easy climbing straight up to the grassy ledge. Be careful clipping the 2nd bolt as groundfall potential.Shares the first bolt with the previous route. Use double bolt anchor from previous route.

Ben Gibbins 2012

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