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The Tors

Type
Altitude
453m
Part of

Some good middle grade climbs are to be found on this small crag, including the classic ***Nudity 20. The harder routes are serious propositions with little pro and the odd loose or brittle hold.

Climbing Notes

All but two of the routes require gear to lead them, and getting a belay at the top can require serious amounts of extension. For those wishing to top-rope, it's an easy scramble up the back.
Generally belays are on blocks on the top ledge and descents at either end or over the back. There is a bolted belay for Mirage/Collateral Damage/Cat's Cradle.
An Abseil anchor is installed, above and right of Nudity.
The Feb 22nd Earthquake shifted rocks around on the top of the crag, BE CAREFULL ABOUT WHAT YOU USE FOR ANCHORS ON THE TOP!!
Unfortunately a few climbs were destroyed around and including "Future Legend".

History

In 1970 the great developer Ross Gooder produced Smaug 19, and the excellent **Hotlegs 17. 1973 saw exploration by Lindsay Main and Exposition 17. Then in 1977, new-arrival John Allen did the superb classic ***Nudity 20 which had been cleaned by Main. John also added *Future Legend 19. Over the next few years, these two were the main contributors, Main's best routes being Cat's Cradle 21 and Mirage 20. In a short burst of activity in 1979, John Allen added *Moss Gard 22. The crag was then left alone, considered by most to be worked out, until Tony Ward-Holmes added the desperate Someone Else's Girl 27 in 1993, being the first purely bolt protected route on the crag. Joe Arts then followed on and bolted Bulgy Bowels and Progressive Aging in 1994 and Lindsay Main added Collateral Damage 21 in 1996.

Image
Walktime
20 min
Aspect
South West
Lat/lon
POINT (172.69289 -43.59127)
Topo50
BX24 755 735
Access

The Tors are prominent rock pillars on the harbour side of the Summit Rd between Castle and Rapaki Rocks, about 200m west of Castle Rock. While the Summit road is closed park at Rapaki, walk eastwards towards Castle Rock for 15 min, The Tors are on the Lyttelton Harbour side of the road. Cross the stile and follow the track (part of the crater rim walkway) or go straight up the hill to the crag.
The landowners, John and Sue Stevens of Cass Bay, do not allow access to their land, and therefore the crag is closed. However it is hoped that access can be negotiated in the near future.

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
Kilgore's Crack 10
0
Wampeter 11
0
Foma 10
0
War & Peace 14 15m
0
Granfalloon 13 15m
0
P Pantagruel 14 15m
1.02
NN No Nirvanas 17 15m
0
S Smaug 19 15m
0
MB Mr Baggins 10 15m
1.02
Gm Gollum 12 15m
1.02
Dominoes 17 15m
0
Go Gumbo 16
0
FL Future Legend 19
1.02
Someone Else's Girl 27 2
0
C Crapbreech 15
1.02
DIY D.I.Y. 18 16m
0
HL Hotlegs 17 18m
2.01
Hot Pants 20 18m
0
M Mirage 20 18m
0
CD Collateral Damage 21 18m 3
2.01
CC Cat's Cradle 21 18m
1.02
Ga Gargantua 16 18m
0
EC Exposition Crack 17 18m
2.01
P Porno 22 18m
2.01
Quick Thrash 24 18m 1
0
J Jambilicus 15 18m
0
Two Bit Climb 19 18m 1
0
N Nudity 20 18m
3
LS Lickedy Splat 22 17m
2.01
Moss Guard 22 17m
3
Great Notion 21 17m
0
Gt Gormenghast 17 17m
0
Progressive Aging 17 1
0
Bulgy Bowels 17 14m 1
0
Windless 18 8m
0
Comments
Files
Name
The Tors Guide.pdf
This place appears in
Attribution
Information by Lindsay Main & Previously hosted on website by John Davis
Photo Clayton Garbes, Topo Grant Piper
UUID
 
0bd945d2-598f-476d-9281-2fd724ab9830