Place info

The Tors

(35 routes)

Some good middle grade climbs are to be found on this small crag, including the classic ***Nudity 20. The harder routes are serious propositions with little pro and the odd loose or brittle hold.
Climbing Notes
All but two of the routes require gear to lead them, and getting a belay at the top can require serious amounts of extension. For those wishing to top-rope, it's an easy scramble up the back.
Generally belays are on blocks on the top ledge and descents at either end or over the back. There is a bolted belay for Mirage/Collateral Damage/Cat's Cradle.
An Abseil anchor is installed, above and right of Nudity.
The Feb 22nd Earthquake shifted rocks around on the top of the crag, BE CAREFULL ABOUT WHAT YOU USE FOR ANCHORS ON THE TOP!!
Unfortunately a few climbs were destroyed around and including "Future Legend".
History
In 1970 the great developer Ross Gooder produced Smaug 19, and the excellent **Hotlegs 17. 1973 saw exploration by Lindsay Main and Exposition 17. Then in 1977, new-arrival John Allen did the superb classic ***Nudity 20 which had been cleaned by Main. John also added *Future Legend 19. Over the next few years, these two were the main contributors, Main's best routes being Cat's Cradle 21 and Mirage 20. In a short burst of activity in 1979, John Allen added *Moss Gard 22. The crag was then left alone, considered by most to be worked out, until Tony Ward-Holmes added the desperate Someone Else's Girl 27 in 1993, being the first purely bolt protected route on the crag. Joe Arts then followed on and bolted Bulgy Bowels and Progressive Aging in 1994 and Lindsay Main added Collateral Damage 21 in 1996.

  • South West

    Aspect

  • 20 min

    Walk in

  • 453m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
South West
Altitude: 
453m

Some good middle grade climbs are to be found on this small crag, including the classic ***Nudity 20. The harder routes are serious propositions with little pro and the odd loose or brittle hold.
Climbing Notes
All but two of the routes require gear to lead them, and getting a belay at the top can require serious amounts of extension. For those wishing to top-rope, it's an easy scramble up the back.
Generally belays are on blocks on the top ledge and descents at either end or over the back. There is a bolted belay for Mirage/Collateral Damage/Cat's Cradle.
An Abseil anchor is installed, above and right of Nudity.
The Feb 22nd Earthquake shifted rocks around on the top of the crag, BE CAREFULL ABOUT WHAT YOU USE FOR ANCHORS ON THE TOP!!
Unfortunately a few climbs were destroyed around and including "Future Legend".
History
In 1970 the great developer Ross Gooder produced Smaug 19, and the excellent **Hotlegs 17. 1973 saw exploration by Lindsay Main and Exposition 17. Then in 1977, new-arrival John Allen did the superb classic ***Nudity 20 which had been cleaned by Main. John also added *Future Legend 19. Over the next few years, these two were the main contributors, Main's best routes being Cat's Cradle 21 and Mirage 20. In a short burst of activity in 1979, John Allen added *Moss Gard 22. The crag was then left alone, considered by most to be worked out, until Tony Ward-Holmes added the desperate Someone Else's Girl 27 in 1993, being the first purely bolt protected route on the crag. Joe Arts then followed on and bolted Bulgy Bowels and Progressive Aging in 1994 and Lindsay Main added Collateral Damage 21 in 1996.

Access: 

The Tors are prominent rock pillars on the harbour side of the Summit Rd between Castle and Rapaki Rocks, about 200m west of Castle Rock. While the Summit road is closed park at Rapaki, walk eastwards towards Castle Rock for 10-15min, The Tors are on the Lyttleton Harbour side of the road. Cross the stile and follow the track (part of the crater rim walkway) or go straight up the hill to the crag.

Walk time: 
20 min
NZMS260: 
M36 856 351
Topo50: 
BX24 755 735
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
10
0
Natural gear required
  A short steep crack with good holds on the left margin of the cliff.
11
0
Natural gear required
  A steep crack with good holds but poor protection until the crux near the top of the climb.

Lindsay Main '77

10
0
Natural gear required
  An easy-angled corner with a steep grassy bulge (crux) in the middle.
14
0
15m
Natural gear required
  The bulge between Foma and Granfalloon. Negligible pro
13
0
15m
Natural gear required
  Start in the easy-angled right-facing corner, at mid-height traverse left and climb straight up near the edge.

Ross Gooder '70

P
14
1.02
15m
Natural gear required
  Start as for G. but continue up the corner, by some interesting bridging (crux).

Ross Gooder '70

NN
17
0
15m
Natural gear required
  Climb the sharply cut right facing vegetated corner, which steepens up under a large block. Swing round to the edge on the left using underclings, then climb up the thin crack. Watch for loose rock in the top crack.

Lindsay Main, 1977

S
19
0
15m
Natural gear required
1
  Start on the left side of a wall wide. Climb up the thin crack which steepens up under the large block, then proceed delicately on small holds to layback past the block. Holds may be loose and protection marginal.

Ross Gooder '70

MB
10
1.02
15m
Natural gear required
  Start in the middle of the wall near a prominent crack, move onto the wall where this is easier. Great pro.
Gm
12
1.02
15m
Natural gear required
1
 
Starting on the right side of the wall, climb the left facing corner. Harder now since the earthquake.

Ross Gooder, 1970

17
0
15m
Natural gear required
  The wall and bulge between Gumbo and Gollum. Easy start, then up steep wall on good holds and over bulge. Poor pro 'til well after the crux.

Lindsay Main '83

Go
16
0
Gone
 

Start up a crack beneath a jumble of large, loose blocks. Climb through the first bulge then move left up the wall and over the small bulge. finish straight up the wall above. Watch for loose blocks at first roof.

FL
19
1.02
Gone
 

Climb the right crack through the slight bulge (crux), then easier up to the overhang. Move up right onto the wall and across delicately to reach jugs and a hard move out from under the roof onto the upper wall. Continue up on larger holds. Protection adequate. Much harder for short people.You can also go directly out the top roof instead of across the wall (about 22), or out the loose crack on the left (20/21). John Allen '77

27
0
Gone
 

steep, powerful and bolted - somewhat out of character with the other routes here. Straight up the very steep wall between Future Legend and Crapbreech. 2 bolts. Tony Ward-Homes '93

C
15
1.02
Gone
 

The overhanging off-width crack. Bridging and large jugs near the top make this a good route. Good protection (cams #3 and up). Somewhat more sustained since one of the big jugs at the top fell off. James Jenkins '73

DIY
18
0
16m
Natural gear required
  The wall to the right of Crapbreech. Start with a move to the right from the small rib. Spaced protection. Purists can choose to stay entirely left or right of the arête for a bit more fun.

John Allen '79

HL
17
2.01
18m
Natural gear required
  Climb the thin crack up through a small roof (crux), and then up to a left facing corner. Proceed pleasantly up the corner to the top. Good protection.

Ross Gooder '70

20
0
18m
Natural gear required
  Climb ‘Mirage’ or ‘Hot Legs’ for about eight metres to the gain a standing position on pedestal between the two routes and below a large roof / nose. Launch yourself straight over the roof and up the front face of the pillar on good holds, no protection to the top (climbed on sight).

Tony Burnell

M
20
0
18m
Natural gear required
  Start up Hotlegs then move right and up the right-facing corner, going right past the overhang to the top. Protection adequate, but make sure you don't miss the fixed piton under the roof (failing to clip it nearly killed John Visser - don't let it happen to you). Alternatively cheat and clip the bolts on Collateral Damage.

Lindsay Main '82

CD
21
2.01
18m
3X bolts
  The roof and arête between Mirage and Cat's Cradle. Start on the left, move out to the first bolt and up over the roof (crux) to a good rest, then move technically up the arête. Three bolts plus gear at the top, bolt+chain belay

Lindsay Main '96

CC
21
1.02
18m
Natural gear required
  Move up the smooth groove left of Garganuta and then powerfully straight up through the roof (crux) 5m up. From the vegetated ledge climb the easier wall above and follow the crack veering rightwards. The start used to be easier before the deacying ledge decayed.

Lindsay Main '80

Ga
16
0
18m
Natural gear required
1
  The prominent gully, start from the left and swing around into the crack (crux). Continue straight up. Direct start from the right is 18, but probably less awkward since the good ledge on the left fell off.

Ross Gooder '70

EC
17
2.01
18m
Natural gear required
  From 5m up Gargantua move from the gully onto the right wall, following vague cracks. 5m from the top step left and climb a small bulge to finish. Good pro every few metres up the crack. (Nuts and smaller cams)

Lindsay Main '73

P
22
2.01
18m
Natural gear required
3
  Start below the Gargantua gully. Move up and right to above the overhang and up the wall above, finishing up the top 3m left of Jambilicus. Adequate Pro on the face (Small wires, slings and RPs)

John Howard '79

24
0
18m
1X bolts
Natural gear required
  Climb through the right side of the overhang past the bolt. Carry on up the wall above with reasonable pro with the options of finishing as for Porno, Jamblicus, or the highest piece of rock.

Tony Ward-Homes, 1999

J
15
0
18m
Natural gear required
  Start just left of Nudity. Climb up about 4m, move left to the bottom of the obvious groove (crux). The protection improves after this section!!! Proceed up the pleasant groove and wall above. Watch out for loose or brittle holds.

Henry Mares '77Direct start through the roof (18, Gavin Tweedie '82), with no pro

19
0
18m
1X bolts
Natural gear required
  From the bottom of Nudity, move left climb the thin crack and wall, then up past Old Single bolt. Move left to arete, over the large hanging flake at the top. Spaced gear & Committing top out.

John Barnes 1989

N
20
3
18m
Natural gear required
  The prominent corner. Bare, but not indecently exposed. An excellent, sustained route for those with good technique. Straight up to the top. Pro adequate - CDs fit better than nuts (the nut placements are worn), take plenty of small cams (#0.5 and smaller). You can make it 19 by moving out R at 2/3 height to good holds,a hands free rest and pro on ledge.

John Allen '77

LS
22
0
17m
Natural gear required
  Through the overhang and up the arete R of Nudity. One loose hold, handle with care. Serious start but adequate pro after that.

Steve Elder '89

22
0
17m
Natural gear required
  Climb the overhang 3m right of Nudity, step right then trend left and up to a good spike hold. Continue up trending left to the top. Sparse protection, very serious.

John Allen '79

21
0
17m
Natural gear required
  Climb through the overhang left of Gormeghast then follow a thin crack line right and up until near Gormenghast. Finally proceed up the upper wall. Technically not overly hard for the grade, but sparse protection, serious.

Lindsay Main '83

Gt
17
0
17m
Natural gear required
  The left leaning corner, climb the underhung start and easy slab to gain the corner. Using holds on the left wall and laybacking move to the top, finish using block and tree roots with care. Adequate protection.

Lindsay Main '77

17
0
1X bolts
Natural gear required
  The overhang and wall right of Gormenghast. One bolt. A second bit up steep slippery vegetated loose unprotected rock adds a uniquely alpine flavour...& spaced

Joe Arts '94

17
0
14m
1X bolts
Natural gear required
  The bulge R of the descent route. Interesting texture, and one bolt.

Joe Arts '94

18
0
8m
Natural gear required
  Up the highest part of the wall of rounded holds out on the headland about 150m south of The Tors.

Dean Engle (solo) '94

Attribution: 
Information by Lindsay Main & Previously hosted on website by John Davis Photo Clayton Garbes, Topo Grant Piper
This place appears in: 

Comments

Comments

There's also some reasonable bouldering on the small ridge further right towards lyttleton, including the obligatory traverse and one route. Watch out for loose rock.

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