Place info

Middle Sister

(41 routes)

 
The Feb 22nd Earthquake has caused major damage at the crag! There has been major rockfall. THERE ARE LOOSE ROCKS TOTTERING ABOUT THESE CRAGS, EAGERLY WAITING TO SKANK YOU! Aftershocks are feature at the moment. USE YOUR BRAINS AND STAY CLEAR!
Information by Lindsay Main & Previously hosted on website by John Davis
The biggest crag of the Sisters.
Occasionally gets the afternoon sun.

  • South West

    Aspect

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South West

 
The Feb 22nd Earthquake has caused major damage at the crag! There has been major rockfall. THERE ARE LOOSE ROCKS TOTTERING ABOUT THESE CRAGS, EAGERLY WAITING TO SKANK YOU! Aftershocks are feature at the moment. USE YOUR BRAINS AND STAY CLEAR!
Information by Lindsay Main & Previously hosted on website by John Davis
The biggest crag of the Sisters.
Occasionally gets the afternoon sun.

Access: 

Find the track between Twisted and Middle Sister and decend through the bush

Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
23
0
7m
 

The short sport route at the left end of the crag

25
0
3X bolts
  bouldery cruz at 2nd bolt.

Iain Lawson.

24
0
12m
 

The rounded arete.

Marcus Thomas

SO
16
0
8m
  A right facing corner on the left of the cliff. Good climbing, crux at top. A right facing corner on the left of the cliff. Good climbing, crux at top.
21
0
8m
  The smooth arete just R of Short Order. Pro from Short Order and a bolt. Friction, tricky. Brian Fish '81
23
0
8m
  The open corner with one bolt Ton Snelder '90
22
1.02
22m
  The next arete. Start in the corner of A Bridge Too Far and delicately balance L across to the arete, then up. Two bolts, natural pro at the top. Bolt/chain belay. Lindsay Main '90
21
0
 

Start at the undercut arête left of A Bridge Too Far climb the rib to the large roof. Use good holds left of a blind groove before a thin break takes you back to the arête and the third bolt, continue straight up to a double bolt belay.

Tony Burnell

B2F
17
0
14m
  The second corner to the R of SO. Jam and bridge past a rib. Lindsay Main '77
JW
20
0
16m
 

Sart at VC, move left using flake. Then up wall on RH side of the crackto a break and exit crack.

Neil Sloan

19
0
16m
  A crack with a roof at 2/3 height. Nip up to the roof and grapple with the rounded holds above. Joe Arts '90
CD
17
1.02
16m
1
 

The corner left of MWG, crux at start then cruise up gear eating corner

Neil Sloan

MWG
22
2.01
16m
  A powerful route up the wall L of Judge and Jury. Starts in a small corner (natural pro), then up the headwall going L then R. Three bolts. Joe Arts '90
J&J
17
1.02
16m
Gone
  Start in a L-facing black corner above a tree, then swing through the roof and jam the crack.

Lindsay Main '77

19
2.01
20m
5X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
  Starts on arete immediately left of prominent rockfall scar. Committing moves into the hanging corner. Head right towards DBA at the top.

Michael Eatson, September 2016

22
2.01
20m
6X bolts
  Climbs wall to right of lock and key finishing at same lower off

Iain LawsonFeb 2017

FB
23
1.02
18m
Gone
 

Start behind tree R of J&J through layaways then veering left to steepening headwall

Richard Kimberley

10
0
18m
  Chimney up behind big detached pillar, exit by squeezing up and right through chockstones to victory. Bit chossy but no doubt will clean up with traffic.

Sam Waetford, solo

19
0
18m
Gone
  Starts in an undercut corner/crack with grey rock. Power up past the bolt (crux), then move L to the cracked arete. Joe Arts '90
JOrhv
19
0
Gone
  From the top of the initial groove step out right onto the top of the pedestal. Continue direct up the cracks above to the top of the crag. Move left to the belay bolt of Suicide Etc. Climbed on sight .

Tony Burnell

SM
23
1.02
18m
Gone
  Up the wall L of Fear of Flying past two bolts and somewhat to the L of a third bolt, then up the corner above (CDs). Joe Arts '90
NU
22
1.02
18m
Gone
  Just right of SM, up the seam through the overhang. 5 bolts. Uses top bolt of SM. Joe Arts '91
FoF
17
2.01
18m
Gone
  An incipient crack leads to an impressive roof curving to the R. Climb the wall with no pro (16) and traverse R under the roof.

Henry Mares '77

FP
20
0
18m
  the wall right of FoF, natural pro. Tony Burnell '99
20
0
18m
 

Start up EA. Move L after 2nd bolt onto arete, then pull over small bulge

Marcus Thomas

EAS
17,18
1.02
25m
 
  1. Skirts the roofs. Up wall past a bolt to first roof and traverse R to the arete. Up past second bolt and into corner, up through notch to finish. Large CD at exit. Rebolted in '96. Lindsay Main '84
  2. Second pitch to Evasive Action. Follow bolts up the arête to a chain anchor at the top. Joe Arts '94
DE
17
0
25m
  Follows the centre of three vague cracks, starting to the right and moving left (crux) to reach the crack. Poor pro at first. Finish up the overhanging corner on good holds. Lindsay Main '81
18
0
22m
  R of Delayed Effect. Bridge up groove (poor pro using D.E. crack further up) and up wall to arete (crux). Up over blocks to top. Lindsay Main '84
WO
20
1.02
22m
  The arete R of A.. A technical testpiece. One bolt and small wires. Take CDs for the exit past bushes and up a corner. Lindsay Main '90
20
0
22m
  Incipient crack between Working Overtime and Ball and Chain. Good pro from small wires. CDs at top. Exit as for W.O. Lindsay Main '90
BC
15
0
20m
  A flaring narrow chimney with jams at the back; crux at the small tree. Not recommended. Lindsay Main '77
PA
18
0
20m
  Arête left of Sharks' Nest. Start from loose block to bolt, and follow nice moves up right edge of arête past bolt 2 to an easy section. To do part two, womble left and take off up steep overhanging red face past horizontal breaks (CDs) and maybe a bolt. The finish is strenuous and committing. Marcus Thomas '95
SN
16
1.02
20m
  A good climb. Climb a L-facing corner with small holds and poor pro, moving L after 8m to easy ground. Then climb the crack through a bulge. A good climb. Climb a L-facing corner with small holds and poor pro, moving L after 8m to easy ground. Then climb the crack through a bulge.
PB
16
1.02
18m
1
  Climb a short wall to a bulging jam crack (crux), then right to another crack and up to top. Lindsay Main '77
22
1.02
 

Takes a line up the wall crossing through ‘Prometheus Busted’. Start at the same point but climb straight up the wall to a hanging flake facing right. Use the flake to climb through the bulge and move straight up the wall to where ‘P B’ moves right. Step left and follow the faint ‘S’ shaped groove up to final head wall. Make a couple of moves and gain the top just below the high point of the crag. Gear spaced double ropes an advantage. Climbed on site.

Tony Burnell

23
0
18m
  the bold arete to the right of PB Tony Burnell '99
10
0
12m
 

Obvoius crack , with a bit of vegitation.

Lindsay Main

23
0
12m
 

On wall right of GCS though bulge.

Jonathon Wilkinson

22
1.02
 

Climbs the blunt arete to the left of ‘Clutching at Straws’, bold and unprotected to the final moves on ‘Clutching at Straws’. Climb the left side of the arete to a good ledge friend 11/2 in shallow pocket on left. Move up onto the good foot ledge on ‘C at S’ good wire placement finish as for ‘C at S’. Brushed before climbing.

Tony Burnell

18
0
10m
  On R side of cliff. Start up a R facing corner over a loose pillar. L onto a ledge on the arete, Then up slightly R over the bulge (crux). Adequate pro. Lindsay Main '84
22
0
7m
 

A short tricky climb on the Rh end of the crag

Marcus Thomas

Attribution: 
By Lindsay Main, other added in climbs by Tony Burnell Copied in & topo by Grant piper
This place appears in: 
Rock Deluxe: South
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