Place info

Tamatea

(9 routes)

The crag is located on the South side of the Summit Rd in a gut overlooking the Governors Bay Rd. The main wall is around twenty metres high and the rock is typical Port Hills volcanic rock, lichen covered, course grained and fairly compact. The West (main) Face is not too steep but as you go towards the south end of the main face the crag changes in nature becoming undercut & then overhanging around on the South Face. The majority of the climbs were done by Simon Courtois & Tony Burnell.

  • West

    Aspect

  • 6 min

    Walk in

  • 400m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
West
Altitude: 
400m

The crag is located on the South side of the Summit Rd in a gut overlooking the Governors Bay Rd. The main wall is around twenty metres high and the rock is typical Port Hills volcanic rock, lichen covered, course grained and fairly compact. The West (main) Face is not too steep but as you go towards the south end of the main face the crag changes in nature becoming undercut & then overhanging around on the South Face. The majority of the climbs were done by Simon Courtois & Tony Burnell.

Access: 

From the Sign of the Kiwi drive along the Summit Rd. go past the Sugar Loaf road turn off & the next parking spot, keep going till you reach a parking spot on the North side of the Summit Road, trees on the south side and a gate. In the paddock on the Lyttelton side you should be able to see a smiley face painted on a rock. Cross the fence and skirt the edge of the plantation heading up the hill until you come to the top of the crag

Walk time: 
6 min
NZMS260: 
M36 826 342
Topo50: 
BX24 726 726
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
Red Wall Area
19
0
20m
7X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
  On the main West face of the crag (see attached PDF file for Tamatea by Tony Burnell) at the right hand end of the Red Wall area is a line of staples in the corner. Start just right of "Y" Climb. Awkward moves up to hole then move right and bridge up corner. Then move left onto the red face at top of pillar. Up onto easier ground staying right of " Y" Climb, clip last staple and move right before heading up through the overlap to the chain.

FFA Warrick Matheson 01/04/2017

PSR
14
0
20m
6X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
  Access from the track going under the South Face. Just before the turn onto the West face there is a narrowish grass ledge. Go under a rock overhang -mouth - where you will find a single bolt for belaying on a sloping ledge. Climb the face/arete with 4 bolts- sharpish holds - onto a ledge. Cross the ledge to a short face with 2 bolts. Anchor is two ring bolts

Steve Moore Jan 2017

TK
25
0
10m
4X bolts
  Stick clip the first staple on the roof, Climb through the roof and onto the headwall.

Cirrus Tan, 2015

Cy
23
0
12m
4X bolts
  Start from the base of "Power, Corruption..." and climb up past the first 2 staples to a big pocket. Move left and up under the overhanging arete to next staple. Then climb up on fingery holds trending left to the fourth staple. Continue up the red face left of the arete to the anchor right of the chains.

FFA Warrick Matheson 09.04.2017

PC
19
0
10m
4X bolts
  Runs to the right side of the cave on the South East face. Follow the line of staples onto a ledge, then up the face.

Grant Piper. Inauguration day 2017

Gb
16
0
10m
3X bolts
  The line of 3 staples to the right of POWER,CORRUPTION AND ALTERNATIVE FACTS. Steep moves off the deck following a rounded arete to a ledge.Tricky move getting off ledge, pass the third bolt into vague groove. Move left to the anchor.

Steve Moore Jan 2017

KJ
20
0
10m
3X bolts
  Bridge up the small cave entrance, gain the shelf and clip the last staple from the pedestal, then through the crux on to the upper access ramp.

Grant Piper 2017

SC
22
0
6m
2X bolts
  Climb up through the scoops to mantle onto the access ramp.

Kevin Barratt 2017

LWR
17
0
10m
2X bolts
  From the lower/ right end of the access ramp, climb directly through the bulge then up the slab to the finish.

Grant Piper 2017

Attribution: 
Tony Burnell
AttachmentSize
Topo Guide to Tamatea3.11 MB
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