Place info
Rapaki
(26 routes)
The Feb 22nd Earthquake has caused major damage at the crag! There has been major rockfall. THERE ARE LOOSE ROCKS TOTTERING ABOUT THESE CRAGS, EAGERLY WAITING TO SKANK YOU! Aftershocks are feature at the moment. USE YOUR BRAINS AND STAY CLEAR!
A crag much beloved by beginning climbers, outdoor ed classes and scouts. Easy walk-on, walk-off access means the place is often crowded with top-ropers, though all routes are leadable on gear. Not as many classic routes as other port hills crags, but worth a visit if you can find a day when it's not too crowded.
Classic crag, especially for beginners.
The Feb 22nd Earthquake has caused major damage at the crag! There has been major rockfall. THERE ARE LOOSE ROCKS TOTTERING ABOUT THESE CRAGS, EAGERLY WAITING TO SKANK YOU! Aftershocks are feature at the moment. USE YOUR BRAINS AND STAY CLEAR!
A crag much beloved by beginning climbers, outdoor ed classes and scouts. Easy walk-on, walk-off access means the place is often crowded with top-ropers, though all routes are leadable on gear. Not as many classic routes as other port hills crags, but worth a visit if you can find a day when it's not too crowded.
Classic crag, especially for beginners.
| Reference | Name | Grade | Quality | Length | Comments | Actions | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
LE
|
15
|
0 |
16m
|
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| On Left side of crag. Up through face on left of crag. | |||||||||||
|
10
|
1.02 |
15m
|
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| Climb the easy bottom wall, then move up slightly left to finish up jugs to the top. | |||||||||||
|
B
|
14
|
0 |
15m
|
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|
An easy lower section gives access to a short steep wall. |
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|
16
|
1.02 |
16m
|
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|
Up Vauge Crack, around bulge to ledge. Use hand crack form ledge to top. Poor Pro! |
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|
R
|
12
|
1.02 |
14m
|
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|
A steep crack with small but good holds leads to ledges, finish by trending up left. A harder direct finsh continues up from the top of a large flake. |
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|
Fc
|
14
|
0 |
18m
|
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|
Up rib to slanting roof. Step left, & bridge up past protruding block into corner. Finish up the prow or exit left. |
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|
Sy
|
13
|
1.02 |
18m
|
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|
The Left Crack past nose. |
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|
MP
|
13
|
1.02 |
18m
|
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|
Smooth rock near the bottom becomes more inviting under a small but prominent nose. Climb up one side or other of the nose, continue up either a narrow slab or an adjacent crack. |
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|
0 |
18m
|
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|
no pro at all. Tony Burnell '99 |
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|
24
|
0 |
18m
|
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|
Steep an scaly wall 5m right of MP. Left side of large scoop below the ovrhangs. Up loose blocks & thin crack through roof to the right, past old bolt. |
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|
PC
|
23
|
0 |
18m
|
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|
Right side of the scoop, past 2 bolts, over bulge and up overhanging headwall. Flaky rock. Steve Elder '89 |
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|
GG
|
16
|
1.02 |
15m
|
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|
Climb up into the vee chimney, bridge and chimney to exit right onto the upper wall. Continue to the top. Good protection. |
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|
B2F
|
0 |
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|
Climb easily up into the groove, then bridge up to the roof. Continue bridging and exit with difficulty on to the top wall. Adequate protection. John Howard '78 |
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|
Sr
|
0 |
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|
a few difficult, slabby (slimy?) moves (#1 wire and RPs for pro) to gain the scoop, then a few powerful moves to get out of it followed by easy climbing to the top. Adequate (but technical) pro. |
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|
16
|
0 |
17m
|
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|
Irregular rib with a Bulge. Climb arete to ledge & finish as for Spinnaker. Lindsay Main 1979 |
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|
F
|
0 |
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|
Climb the corner at the left end of a ledge until the corner runs out. Ignore the easy finish off left, move up across a shallow hollow to the right. Continue straight up to the top. |
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|
MR
|
3 |
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|
Classic climb with good pro. A fine route, climb the middle of the wall following the thin crack line until under the left end of the overhang. Using underclings move up in the middle of the overhang to jugs over the roof. Finish up the pleasant top wall. Good protection. |
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|
Y
|
1.02 |
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|
Climb the corner on right of M.R. wall then follow the arch shape and eventually gain the righthand end of M.R. overhang. Some loose rock but good pro. Move rightwards over the arch lip and easily to the top. |
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|
17
|
0 |
18m
|
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|
Climb the corner, move right onto the wall, then move up with some difficulty to gain a niche. Continue up the easier top section |
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|
M
|
0 |
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|
Climb the rib on small holds (hard, very poor pro). Then up and into the chimney, from the cave at the top move out left. Easier climbing to the top. Varied climbing. Good protection. An easier start more in keeping with the rest of the climb would be the jam crack on the left. |
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|
0 |
17m
|
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|
the brown pillar right of Yardarm. No pro. Tony Burnell '99 |
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|
FW
|
0 |
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|
Climb the wall at the left of B & S ledge, find a runner then continue up the loose flaky wall. Pro ok, but a lot of it's behind loose stuff. John Allen |
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|
B&S
|
1.02 |
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|
Climb onto the ledge on the right end, then move up and right. Climb the overhang to good holds on the upper wall, move up to cracks and grooves. Protection adequate - 3.5 or 4 friend helpful before upper bulge. |
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|
19
|
0 |
16m
|
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|
Dave Macleod 1988 |
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|
FJ
|
1.02 |
1
|
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|
Starts at a lower level, climb the steep wall and gain the groove. Climb up the crack moving right near the top. Good protection. |
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|
15
|
0 |
15m
|
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|
Thrutch up the chimney, or swing up with technique. A traverse to the left using a horizontal crack leads to an easier groove between the big overhang on the left and the block on the right. |
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Comments
Well Said.