Place info

Susie's Slab

(7 routes)

The first wall you come to. Visible from the road.

  • South West

    Aspect

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South West

The first wall you come to. Visible from the road.

Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
U1
13
0
Natural gear required
  The first obvious crack on the small left hand crag, visible from the stile.

Stu Allan, 1972

U2
16
0
Natural gear required
  The second crack, offwidth.

Stu Allan, 1972

SS
19
1.02
7m
1X bolts
Natural gear required
One or more images in route detail.
  A classic two move wonder with bolt protection on upper part. The red wall right of the Uglies. Proceed directly up the wall to mantleshelf onto large hold, clip bolt, then climb up slightly right on small holds to easier ground. 2-ring anchor. Technically only 19, but gets one grade for the unprotected moves to the bolt. You can arrange a side runner, which whilst it won't keep you off the deck, will mean you hit feet first (as opposed to head first) if you fail on the upper mantle.

Merv English, 1983

23
0
7m
2X bolts
  Delicate face climbing, moving left from the first bolt of Pumping Velvet. Alternatively, start below the small shelf just above head height and mantle onto it, thread the hangerless bolt, then trend left up the thin face. Either step right and clip the top bolt of pumping velvet (hard!) then trend left again, or continue leftwards towards the finish of Susie's Slab (easier, but unprotected on the top section). Shares the two-ring anchor of Susie's Slab.

Marcus Thomas, 2003

PV
23
2.01
7m
2X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
  Starts up a slight crack right of Susie‚Äôs Slab. Hard layaways lead to a long reach out right to a (relative) jug, continue up to next bolt. Either step about a metre right then follow the crimpers trending back left to the top, or continue directly up from the 2nd bolt (harder). A really good route. 2 bolts, no anchor, but the anchor of Susie's Slab is OK for top-roping if you use a long sling.

Ton Snelder, 1984

CS
24
0
1X bolts
Natural gear required
 
Climb direct over the rooflet right of Pumping Velvet. Tie your belayer down to the left so the wire at the break protects the move. No reaching into the gully.

Tony Ward-Holmes

13
0
10m
Natural gear required
  The black chimney. Hardly catholic.
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Comments

Comments

I think Neophyte (described as a 10m black chimney) belongs on the next buttress: the Susie buttress has no chimney and it's only 7m high.

Someone has removed one of the two anchor rings at the top of Susie's Slab. Since this anchor is so easily accessible to any spanner-wielding member of Joe Public, it's probably a good candidate to be replaced by a couple of staples.

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