Place info

Right Hand End

(28 routes)

The first wall that is approached from the road

NB Climbs are described in the opposite order from how you find them.

  • South

    Aspect

  • 5 min

    Walk in

New Zealand map
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South

The first wall that is approached from the road

NB Climbs are described in the opposite order from how you find them.

Walk time: 
5 min
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
17
0
  Start as for Geckoblaster but move left past the bolt to the armchair (why not take a rest?), and then up the crack. The pro is good providing you have gear to fit the placements.

Damian Carroll, 1991

22
2.01
3X bolts
Natural gear required
  The impressive wall with three bolts and natural pro at the top. The crux is moving past the first bolt on small crimps, after which the holds are bigger (easiest if you climb slightly to the right of the first two bolts).

Damian Carroll, 1991

20
1.02
3X bolts
Natural gear required
1
  The wall right of Geckoblaster, climb past 3 bolts, then move left to a good wire placement and up to the Geckoblaster belay. Alternatively finish straight up the steep headwall (23?). Grant Piper '97
19
1.02
1X bolts
Natural gear required
  Start at the left of the flaxes and scramble up easy walls and ledges to a small bulge with a bolt. Straight up through the roof (crux) with a small wire for pro to reasonable holds and good CD placement. Steep exit to the chains. Joe Arts '98
0
  Start between the flaxes and climb easy ground to a bolt with links. Climb the thin crack (natural pro) on small but good holds and continue up the line above past another bolt to anchor chains on the left. Joe Arts '98
0
  Start to the right of the flaxes and climb a vague crack line to a bolt on the left with chain links, which is shared with the next climb. Pull on to the ledge and clip a bolt with a hanger; climb to another ledge (crux) and through to the top with indifferent natural pro and a bolt on FTE. Lindsay Main '98
0
  Start up an obvious crack with grass. At mid height a diagonal ledge leads right, but step left and continue up the line to a single bolt chain anchor.
23
0
1
Gone
  This route was destroyed in the June 2011 earthquake. Starts under a large roof left of "Franks Wild Years", a decomposing pillar forms the left arete of the roof and unfortunately you have to climb this to get to the first bolt, after this the rock quality improves markedly. From the first bolt move up the arete slightly left to gain a shallow finger jam from which you can lean out precariously to clip the second bolt, move up left of the second bolt to good holds, now traverse the lip gymnastically rightwards to the third bolt and a good incut pocket. Climb the bulging wall above on horizontal holds which vary from poor to good, thankfully, stand up above the fourth bolt, good breaks above and to the right lead to a single bolt lower off.

Tony Burnell, 1997

22
0
2
Gone
  This route was destroyed in the 13 June earthquake A few metres L, go up the crooked corner. 3 bolts and other pro. Rather scary.

Damian Carroll, 1991

20
0
Gone
  A corner with a roof a few metres up and another at the top. Committing moves through the first roof (crux), then easily up the corner and top roof. Natural pro.

Damian Carroll, 1991

21
0
Gone
  Another crack with an undercut start. Up over the roofs on decaying rock past three bolts with chain links, with dynamic moves to reach anything that might stay on. Continue up the crack, watching for loose holds. Not highly recommended. Joe Arts '98
18
0
Gone
  Obvious crack line two metres left. Steep bouldery start past a large hold to a bolt with links, then easily up the crack with CDs to a double anchor chain. Very loose. Joe Arts '98
20
0
Gone
  Start directly below a trucated hanging groove, just left of the arete. Up on small holds to wire placements in a small crack; then rightward past a bolt with hanger and up the groove. Finish up the arete right of the vegetation past another bolt and belay at the chain on top of Sideshow. Lindsay Main '98
13
0
Gone
  The rather obvious deep cleft. Soloed back around 1978 but claimed and named more recently by Gavin Tweedie. Phil Stuart-Jones '78
19
1.02
4X bolts
Natural gear required
  Start on good rock directly below Sideshow to gain crack (small wires). Turn the overhang on the left to climb the wall (crux at first bolt) going straight up to the top. There's pro behind a possibly loose block near the top. Watch for loose holds. Marcus Thomas '95
18
0
3X bolts
  Starting R of a small roof, move up the square overhanging face above. Three bolts and a rap chain. Simon Middlemass

Simon Middlemass

20
0
2X bolts
Natural gear required
  2 new bolts(1 lower down) and a 2 chain anchor. Take large cams or even hexes for the crack.

Calum Hudson

17
0
4X bolts
  Jenny the Hun is best abandoned while Winnie the Orifice and Rooster Booster has become Winnie the Rooster 17 with 4 bolts and its own ring and chain. This seems to be the safest bit of rock around these 3 old climbs.
22
1.02
5X bolts
  Up the flake and blank crack. 5 bolts with a chain and ring on the anchor. Conceived and bolted by Kev with his bolts, grabbed by John when offered the chance. Great moves.

John Entwisle Kev Nicholas 2010

20
1.02
4X bolts
1
  The yellow wall 2m left of Keep 1080. Four new bolts have been moved right a bit and all are easy to clip. Go straight up right of nose to new DB anchor.

Joe Arts, 1995

18
1.02
1X bolts
Natural gear required
1
  The corner crack with a bolt near the top. Good protection and good moves. DBA. Joe Arts '95
21
0
3X bolts
Natural gear required
  Start as for Rat Race but at the second bolt continue up the left slanting crack (CD's) to an existing bolt with link after the bolt at the apex of the cracks move up into a sentry box then out left to a lower off. Tony Burnell '97
RR
24
1.02
4X bolts
  Start at some ledges just left of the start of "Ride on Time", up the easy ledges (BR) to gain the base of a diagonal hanging crack near a bush (BR) move up the crack then move out right onto the face to the third (BR). Sequency face climbing past the third and fourth (BR)to a bolt belay at the top left side of the wall. Steeper than it looks.

Tony Burnell '97

RoT
22
1.02
2X bolts
Natural gear required
  The first smooth (grey) wall. Bolts and wire(s).

Ton Snelder

BEG
22
0
3X bolts
  Start a metre left of Car Culture. Double chain anchor.

Simon Middlemass

CC
18
0
8m
3X bolts
Natural gear required
  The first significant wall with a crack in the top half. 3 bolts so no ground fall potential. 2 new bolts plus 3 hangers and new chain at the top. Pro good above 3rd bolt

Joe Arts, 1997

19
0
4X bolts
Natural gear required
  Car Culture starts up the wall and then takes the crack with cams left of the bolts. The route to its right is "Share the Road" which uses the bolts of CC but climbs the wall on its right near the arete to a fourth bolt.

Joe Arts

22
0
17m
6X bolts
  Located to the left of Seismic Activity. The first bolt is a chain link. Sloped jugs/crimps make up most of the climb, although the two crux's use sneaky side-pulls. Be aware of some loose flakes to the left of the climb. Twin Ring anchor.

FFA Cam Pawson 2016

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Comments

Comments

Prior to the June earthquake Farm park was looking like one of the surviving crags on the Port Hills. After the quake a section of about 30 m long starting left of Sideshow area collapsed

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