Place info

Left of Cave

(25 routes)

The next wall to the left of the cave has six routes. There is a double anchor chain which is in the middle and well back from the top.

Left of the cave is  Cul de Canard

Past the end of the cave is a curving flake/crack which is...

High Hopes
  • South

    Aspect

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South

The next wall to the left of the cave has six routes. There is a double anchor chain which is in the middle and well back from the top.

Left of the cave is  Cul de Canard

Past the end of the cave is a curving flake/crack which is...

High Hopes
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
0
  the obvious crack line Tony Billings '98
0
  up the right facing corner/arete Tony Billings '98
0
  bouldery start Tony Billings '98
0
  Tony Billings '98
0
  Start as for Dark Star to just above the first bolt then move out left and follow the rounded overhanging arete, good holds where there needed, at the sixth bolt lower off or step right to DS belay. Tony Burnell '97
1.02
  Climbs the wall to the left of "Dark Star". Boulder problem start, over the roof past the first bolt, move up and the angle eases clip the second bolt up again third br. move left to where the wall steepens up this past two more BR to a lower off. Tony Burnell '97
2.01
  The rounded black groove. Damian Carroll '91
1.02
  Takes the hanging groove right "Dark Star" Climb the wall with difficulty to the second bolt move slightly left into the groove proper, an ability to bridge helps, go straight up the groove to a single bolt lower off (in effect bolt No. 5) the climbing at the top is steeper but easy. Tony Burnell '97
0
  The black wall with two blots, other placements, and a rap chain. Athol Whimp '91
0
  Start from the rock just right of Schwarzkopf. Crux at bolt one to gain the large flake. Straight up the groove above to another crux below the loop. Run-out easy ground above, and left to S's bolt anchor. Marcus Thomas '95
0
  Start below a roof midway between "Yikes" and "Schwartzkopf", Surmount the roof (BR) and enter the groove on the left with difficulty to gain a good flat hold (BR) on right, bridge up awkwardly up the groove and move right (BR), move to the right of the bolt and go up the steep wall (BR), carry on straigt up to a large ledge and double bolt lower off. Tony Burnell '97
0
  Just L of J. The thin crack. Pete Sykes '91
1.02
  Obvious leaning flake with a wide crack on the right side. Jam and layback the crack to the notch at the top and a manky chain - the double chain at the top of Block and Decker two metres left should be used as a primary anchor. Damian Carroll '91
1.02
  The crack at the back of the huge obvious corner. Initially, move left on to ledge to gain the corner proper, then bridge and jam to a spectacular finish. Mid to large CDs and chain anchors. Lindsay Main '97
0
  This route takes the large flake and overhanging crack on the right wall of the big corner. Then up steep ground to chains at the top. Lindsay Main '94
0
  the big corner to the right of Jam Bandit Lindsay Main '97
0
  Start a metre right of the overhang at a vague groove and bridge up to the first bolt, then natural pro with good holds to a steep finish. Joe Arts '98
0
  Two metres left is this wall with a seam and a small matagouri (CD placement). Steepening climbing past two bolts eases with a move to the right and another bolt, then it's cruisy to the top. Joe Arts '98
0
  On a wall with yellow lichen is a thin crack which takes wires leading to a ledge, then up a vague left-facing corner with good pro initially. Steeply up on good holds and tie off a protruding knob with a sling; then easily to the top and a double chain well back and slightly left. Lindsay Main '98
0
  The overhanging wall with a small roof. Start as for Coming Through (wire pro) or slightly right. There's a wire placement in an odd slot just below the ledge. From the ledge up the wall and through the roof with two bolts, then easy climbing with natural pro. Lindsay Main '98
21
1.02
Natural gear required
  About two metres left is an overhanging crack with a partly formed right-facing corner. Start on the arete to gain the ledge, then strenuous moves up the crack follow (pro is hard to place). DBA placed at top of climb Dec 2011. Matt Abbot '91
0
  Just left of the cave is a large flake (handle with care). Surmount the flake and climb the wall rightward, exiting at a right-leaning corner. Alan Hill '97
17
0
  A wall with a gully with a large jammed chockstone on the left. Up the juggy bulge and the centre of the grey slab.

Alan Hill '97

14 ,14
0
 
  1. Up the crack in the R wall of the gully, belay at the tree.
  2. Go behind the trees and traverse to the bolt on the buttress crest, then zigzag on good holds up through the overhangs.

Pete Sykes (P1) 1991Damian Carroll (P2) 1991

14 ,16
0
 
  1. On the left hand side of the gully by Moonlight Buttress. Tree and CD placements to belay off in the middle.
  2. Continue...

Tony Billings, Craig Smith, 1998

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