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Heel Hook Hijinks

Grade
22
Length
12m
2
Natural pro required
Quality
0
First ascent
Ben Gibbins 2012
Topo ref
HHH

  • P1
  • 22
  • 12m
  • 2
  • Trad

Ingredients: One bouldering mat, one long quickdraw, a couple of small cams (.5 & .75 or small wires) and a cunning belayer. Method: It is recommended to abseil into the climb and place quickdraws first as it is quite strenuous clipping. Place a long quickdraw in the second bolt to help prevent rope drag. The climb is very crumbly in places but all the essential holds are solid. The Climb: Begin right of the first bolt. Boulder up a crumbly looking section to a ledge for your hands and begin traversing left to the bolt. Reach high to clip and keep traversing left around the corner using crimpy holds and multiple heel hooks. Aim for the small gap in the roof above the second bolt. Once through the roof the climb becomes much easier but is loose in places. Place a cam or a wire in the break at about half hight. Note: The belayer has the option to anchor themselves to the large boulder. Also, be prepared for a big swing if you fall while clipping the second bolt. A very satisfying climb.


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