Place info

Shimmering Jelly Wall

(25 routes)

The wall closest to the road

  • West

    Aspect

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
West

The wall closest to the road

Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
10
0
 
20
0
1X bolts
Natural gear required
  Left of Nocuous, climbing the overhanging brown wall, easier above the lone bolt After. Paul Tattersall, 1990
N
19
0
12m
2X bolts
Natural gear required
  The overhanging arete. Follow the arete, placing gear to the left before moving right onto the face to the first bolt (shared with Thin Hedgehog), then up left edge of the face. Double bolt anchor.

Marcus Thomas, 1994

TH
19
0
12m
3X bolts
  A steep, fingery wall, with some good climbing. Start up the right side of the wall against the RA crack; then move leftward to the first bolt (shared with Nocuous). Double bolt anchor slightly to the right. Originally climbed direct to the first bolt, but it’s harder than 19. Both this route and Nocuous used to have only one bolt and hence were seldom climbed – now with decent protection they’re both good routes.

Richard Thomson, 1987

RA
17
1.02
12m
Natural gear required
  Follows the shallow crack. Good protection and nice moves.

Lindsay Main, 1980

16
0
  the wall, pro only low down. Alan Hill 97
B
16
0
12m
  Start between the cracks two metres left of FP and then slightly right for some (not great) protection. Finish straight up.

Lindsay Main, 1981

13
0
Natural gear required
  This route, a metre right, goes past a flake in the middle of the wall, then up, exiting though corner left of steeper section of wall. Scramble to Ring bolt anchor left of Shimmering Jelly rings. Good protection, but rather loose. Lindsay Main 74
GH
12
1.02
12m
Natural gear required
  Just right. From ledge,follow cracks and edges rightward to finish at SJ anchor. Good Gear.

Lindsay Main 1974

SJ
20
2.01
12m
2X bolts
  The wall with two bolts (good #1 rock placement to protect the moves to the 1st). Great fingery moves, though the route wanders a bit following the holds. Tend left above the top bolt (anchors well back),

Pete Sykes

22
0
3X bolts
  Start as for Shimmering Jelly (clipping its first bolt) then break right and straight up over the bulge past two more bolts.

Stu Allan 2009

CT
17
0
11m
Natural gear required
  A steep crack from a ledge. Double fixed ring anchor on vegetated ledge. Good Gear.

Lindsay Main 1980

70c
19
1.02
11m
5X bolts
  The fingery wall with great moves. Start either slightly L or directly below arete. Avoid L arete

Stu McConney 1999

SP
17
0
Natural gear required
  Just left of a corner/chimney (Crag rat) topped by shrubbery. Start at the ledge and step left; then up the left side of the arete past a bolt(removed). Belay on the ledge to double fixed ring bolts. Better to spend your energy on 70 Cents Worth.

Neil Sloan 92 .

16
0
3X bolts
Natural gear required
  Work your way up the awkward corner (good cams) and swing right to clip Rogue Rat's second bolt. Continue more easily to the ring bolt anchors.

Neil Sloan 11/9/11

16
0
4X bolts
  Clip the first bolt from the security of the ledge if you are tall enough, make a few hard moves rightwards avoiding penduluming back into the corner, then grovel left to the second (strangely located) bolt. Then up easily to double ring bolt anchor.

Stu McConney 1997

12
0
5X bolts
  The left side of a rounded arete. Best anchor is two old bolts over the top or else traverse left to RR's ring anchors.

Lindsay Main 81

13
0
  The slightly overhanging corner. Place gear in the righthand crack before climbing thru the bulge, then easier climbing to the top. Jay Jellyman 99
RG
15
2.01
Natural gear required
  From left edge of wall at a gully. Up corner a short way and as soon as possible hand traverse right onto a slopey ledge. Place large cam in rabbit hole and then continue up centre of wall next to yellow lichen. A good route with good but interesting pro from wires and CDs.

Neil Sloan '92

DP
19
1.02
4X bolts
4
  Straight up at the left edge of the roof. The overhang on small holds leads to easier climbing up a wall, over a bulge and finishes up a juggy wall.

Pete Sykes

CB
19
0
Natural gear required
  Climb the left side of the roof using a large block; then balance up to the right of the hebe and on up through a groove. Good pro if you trust the block not to move. (The block is gone so see what you think...) Brett Gracie 1992
23
0
  Rightwards thru the cave to the lip, after which it gets much easier Marcus Thomas 2003
HHH
22
0
12m
2X bolts
Natural gear required
One or more images in route detail.
1
  Ingredients: One bouldering mat, one long quickdraw, a couple of small cams (.5 & .75 or small wires) and a cunning belayer. Method: It is recommended to abseil into the climb and place quickdraws first as it is quite strenuous clipping. Place a long quickdraw in the second bolt to help prevent rope drag. The climb is very crumbly in places but all the essential holds are solid. The Climb: Begin right of the first bolt. Boulder up a crumbly looking section to a ledge for your hands and begin traversing left to the bolt. Reach high to clip and keep traversing left around the corner using crimpy holds and multiple heel hooks. Aim for the small gap in the roof above the second bolt. Once through the roof the climb becomes much easier but is loose in places. Place a cam or a wire in the break at about half hight. Note: The belayer has the option to anchor themselves to the large boulder. Also, be prepared for a big swing if you fall while clipping the second bolt. A very satisfying climb.

Ben Gibbins 2012

RK
19
0
Natural gear required
  At the right edge of the cave pull through the overhang on big holds. Then straight up the wall above. Good pro - two ropes are useful. CD and sling anchor. Lindsay Main 96
14
0
  yes Start just left of the plaque and move left across a slab to the V corner and up. Minimal pro.
This site is a beta version.