Place info

Merlin Wall

(23 routes)

The 2nd wall left from the road, directly below the cattlestop
Climbs described L to R

  • West

    Aspect

  • 5

    Walk in

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
West

The 2nd wall left from the road, directly below the cattlestop
Climbs described L to R

Walk time: 
5
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
MC
14
0
3X bolts
  The face on a small buttress 20m left of Nuggets. Start in the corner or on the R arete (harder) and clip the bolts up to the DBB.

Lindsay Main 2003

15
0
Natural gear required
  On the left side of the small black wall, where the colour changes, is this broken crack. Anchor to a large block. Easier to solo than to lead as it's steep where you need to place gear. Joe Arts 2003
14
0
  short wall with a steep start, no real protection. Stu Allen 2003
14
0
Natural gear required
  A little right is this very short corner entirely on black rock, originally done on minimal pro
GX
15
0
4X bolts
1
  The next shallow corner, a metre right on the left edge of the Nugget's face. Hardest at the start, then up the corner, tending right at the top. DBB.
N
18
1.02
3X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
  Facing north is a short yellow wall. Start up the blocky column on good holds, then traverse left past the first two bolts, finishing straight up at the third. Double eye-bolt belay. There's also a direct start (about 19) straight up to the 3rd bolt, with natural pro (wires).

Neil Sloan 92

U
16
0
1X bolts
Natural gear required
  Directly up from the start of Nuggets then the faint crack beside the insecure looking block on left. It's left of the easier line with 4 bolts (Backblocks). Grade just a guess, maybe 17?

Simon Middlemass (solo) 92

B
15
0
4X bolts
  Start a couple of m R of Nuggets follow line of bolts to finish directly and more steeply following the bolt line. The loose blocks mentioned in some Guidebooks went in the Earthquakes or subsequent "remediation work". Double bolt belay. NB This may be shown incorrectly in topos.

Lindsay Main (solo) 98

PG
15
0
4X bolts
  Down and just around the corner. Start below the bolt on the rounded arete. A foothold up left, crux to the first bolt then easy climbing following the bolts. An easier start is to begin higher on the left. Double bolt belay

Mike Atkinson 2005

15
0
Natural gear required
  Up the corner and continue directly above ignoring all bolts.
PS
15
0
4X bolts
  Right of the shallow un-named corner. An undercut start followed by climbing on the right side of the face. DBB.

Mike Atkinson & Jacqui Berry 2005

14
0
1X bolts
Natural gear required
  Start up A Sharp Crack but angle out left. Keep off the grass and climb the wee corner directly. Clip the last bolt of Please Stop.
14
0
Natural gear required
  Up the crack left of A Dull Thump.
DT
17
1.02
3X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
Gone
  The wall right of the scrubby gully. Up to first bolt (shared by AST) then left following the bolt line and keeping out of the crack line on the left. Fun, moderate climbing with a , double bolt belay back over the top. Lindsay Main
ST
15
1.02
1X bolts
Natural gear required
  The wall left of the arete. Move right onto the arete after the bolt and climb the arete, with poor pro. Loose blocks at the top need to be treated with care. Currently DoC feel that the arete is dangerous/loose and the climb is CLOSED

Richard Thomson (solo), 1987

13
0
Natural gear required
1
  From the ground, swing up the right side of the arete. Loose blocks at the top. Double ring bolt anchors
13
0
Natural gear required
  Up the corner. Adequate pro.
BB
19
0
3X bolts
  A good climb. Starts at a bolt below a bulge in the centre of the brown wall. Move left around the bulge and up to finish on good holds.Stay out of the corner and on the wall. DBB. Perry Logan 97
MTHP
21
0
4X bolts
Natural gear required
1
  As for Basil Brush, start on the brown wall in the centre under a bolt. Move right-wards up past the second bolt (crux) and clip the 2nd bolt on Pigs Can Fly. Finish in the crack. Now has a more in line third bolt and a 2 chain anchor. Has been straightened out, with an extra bolt at the top and added the chains. It is a touch harder than 19, about 21 seems to be the consensus.

Marcus Thomas 90

PCF
19
0
3X bolts
Natural gear required
  On the arete, a direct/right-hand start to Merlin the Happy Pig. Steep bouldery start to a small niche on shaky holds is the crux, then left onto the wall and finish up the crack. The 3 bolts and a slightly contrived alternate finish to the right was added later.

Simon Middlemass (solo) 92

BCS
23
0
2X bolts
Natural gear required
  face to the left of Flap Flap, climb through the highest part of the overhang Richard Kimberley 97
19
0
1X bolts
  A short, steep, right-leaning groove with one bolt. Bouldery start, intimidating finish. Pete Sykes
20
0
Natural gear required
  a thin crack on the right edge of the wall - tricky! Joe Arts 2000
This place appears in: 

Comments

Comments

Loose block just above first bolt of Nuggets has now been removed.

The topo has several climbs mis-labelled - ST is in fact BB and vice versa.
Route C on topo is not named in the route list.
The first and third bolt on ADT are missing still (10/12)

Replying to Simon: ST and BB correct on new topo. Hangers are now back on ADT.

CLIMBERS PLEASE BE AWARE - The rock surrounding the third bolt on 'A Dull Thump' on the Merlin Wall, has now pulled off, exposing the entire bolt and the hanger has fallen off. As a result, a new bolt and hanger will need to be installed and the C/W section will do this as soon as someone has a chance to do so. In the mean time, if you cant wait, feel free to do this yourself or stay off the climb for now. Thanks Clayton Garbes.

This site is a beta version.