Place info

Cattlestop Crag

(104 routes)

The original guide was revised by Lindsay Main, incorporating much rebolting and additions.
The crag is sheltered from the easterly and comprises lots of short sport routes, mixed with some trad climbs. There are a few easy sport routes to get started on.
History
The first climbs were by Lindsay Main in 1974. Despite a few additions in 1980, the crag didn’t catch on. Richard Thomson and Peter Sykes added a few harder routes towards the end of the decade, notably Dead Possum and Shimmering Jelly. Neil Sloan filled in some of the gaps in 1992, picking up some good routes such as Solar Powered and Nuggets in the process. Later, Lindsay Main and Stu Allan searched out a few remaining routes that are unlikely to become classics, except for the steep Surgical Strike. Recently the crag has seen quite a bit of rebolting to bring the routes up to modern standards, with the re-development of some of the low-grade areas to suit instruction courses. At the same time, some of the older routes that were either seriously run-out, ill-equipped, or required single natural pro runners amidst bolts have been retro-bolted to become pure sport climbs, in keeping with Britten Crag.
Climbs are described from left to right.

  • West

    Aspect

  • 5 min

    Walk in

  • 400m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
West
Altitude: 
400m

The original guide was revised by Lindsay Main, incorporating much rebolting and additions.
The crag is sheltered from the easterly and comprises lots of short sport routes, mixed with some trad climbs. There are a few easy sport routes to get started on.
History
The first climbs were by Lindsay Main in 1974. Despite a few additions in 1980, the crag didn’t catch on. Richard Thomson and Peter Sykes added a few harder routes towards the end of the decade, notably Dead Possum and Shimmering Jelly. Neil Sloan filled in some of the gaps in 1992, picking up some good routes such as Solar Powered and Nuggets in the process. Later, Lindsay Main and Stu Allan searched out a few remaining routes that are unlikely to become classics, except for the steep Surgical Strike. Recently the crag has seen quite a bit of rebolting to bring the routes up to modern standards, with the re-development of some of the low-grade areas to suit instruction courses. At the same time, some of the older routes that were either seriously run-out, ill-equipped, or required single natural pro runners amidst bolts have been retro-bolted to become pure sport climbs, in keeping with Britten Crag.
Climbs are described from left to right.

Access: 

There seems to be no problem with access at present, and hopefully the land the cliff is on will be added to the Mt Pleasant Spur block, which was purchased by the Christchurch City Council in January 1996. The easiest approach is to park right by the cattlestop, on the Summit Road. For routes south of Nuggets, cross the cattlestop and and walk straight down the hill to a gully. To the left is In Tatters, to the right Flap Flap. Alternatively, cross the fence east of the cattlestop and walk 80 metres north, then climb down a steep gully between Pinched and Nuggets. A third option is to abseil from the bolt chain at the top of Satanic Verses.

Walk time: 
5 min
NZMS260: 
M36 875358
Topo50: 
BX24 775 742
Attribution: 
By Lindsay Main
This place appears in: 
Rock Deluxe: South

Places

Actions
Wall Little Eiger Wall (5 routes)
Wall Routes Left of Surgical Strike Wall (15 routes)
Wall Surgical Strike Wall (7 routes)
Wall Footwear Wall (11 routes)
Wall Colour Wall (4 routes)
Wall Solar Wall (14 routes)
Wall Merlin Wall (23 routes)
Wall Shimmering Jelly Wall (25 routes)

Comments

Comments

Satanic Verses has been re-bolted. Now has 5 or 6 bolts. Care should be taken clipping last bolt as the block you clip from moves. A new route has been added left of S.V. "Hotter than Hades" 19-21?? depending on the direct start. There is a stick at the base for stick clipping 1st bolt, or step in from the right. 5 bolts and 2 bolt anchor. Finish as for "Quick and Dirty"

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