Place info

Bivvy Rock

(15 routes)

Set in a lovely spot looking down Lyttleton Harbour. The crag gets lots of sun , is sheltered from the southerly but if the Nor West is cranking not so sheltered !
My favourite is "Let Me Sleep on it". I am biased. Dave's route is GOOD
The routes are approximately 18-20m long, and are equiped with rap stations.

  • East

    Aspect

  • 5 mins.

    Walk in

  • 420m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
East
Altitude: 
420m

Set in a lovely spot looking down Lyttleton Harbour. The crag gets lots of sun , is sheltered from the southerly but if the Nor West is cranking not so sheltered !
My favourite is "Let Me Sleep on it". I am biased. Dave's route is GOOD
The routes are approximately 18-20m long, and are equiped with rap stations.

Access: 

Drive south from Sign of the Kiwi for 3 km. Cliff is on the left, which is clearly visible from car park[where the Kennedy's Bush track crosses the road from Halswel Quarry]. Walk uphil[Crater Rim Track] from car and join trail that leads to base of cliff[Ella's Track]. Although the sign has said 'Track Closed' for a couple of years now, all the remedial work on the crag itself( removing loose rocks etc ), as well as on the track leading to the crag was done in 2013.

Walk time: 
5 mins.
NZMS260: 
M36 799 312
Topo50: 
BX24 699 696
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
SE
18
0
20m
7X bolts
  On the left end of the crags. Belay anchor that has a hand rope to assist getting to the start of the climb. Climb the wall directly above the belay anchor past 5 staples, then it kicks back to off vertical to to rap station.

Grant Piper 2017

BH
19
0
20m
7X bolts
  Go rightwards and on to a small ramp from the belay anchor, climb the vertical past 5 staples to the topp of the arete on the left. Finish rightwards up the off vertical to the rap station.

Grant Piper 2017

Pt
21
0
20m
9X bolts
  Starts under the overhang, with a low first staple, bouldery start up and head leftwards, with biggish moves on good holds. Once over onto the head wall, follow line straight up to the devious ending and the same anchor as DR.

Warrick Matheson 2017

DR
18
0
7X bolts
1
  Left angling line of bolts, with good climbing cranking through chickenheads at the bottom, then cruise through the mid section to enjoy the crux near the top. 2 bolt anchor

Duncan Sherratt, 6 April 2012.

19
0
5X bolts
  Start in the shallow cave and move left to the first bolt. Shimmy left and up to under the bulge. Mantle over the bulge and up the head wall to a v-groove finish. Anchor shared with DD & LS.

Owain Scullion Tom Stubbs, 2016

DD
18
0
6X bolts
2
  The route left of the arête (next route) with chain link hangers, and 10mm hangars.

Simon Courtois 2012

LS
19
3
7X bolts
  Bolted line up arete (from 2007) (some link hangers at the bottom) 2 bolt anchor. Extra bolts added

Simon Courtois 2007

PT
17
0
5X bolts
1
  Use same bolts as previous route but climb up onto the shattered pillar right of bolts, and then move left to join previous route. Half of pillar fell off in 2011
CG
20
0
5X bolts
  (‘was my bed last night, and rock was my pillow too)’ 20? Bolted line right of previous route. 4-5 bolts with S.S. hangers. Separate 2 bolt anchor. Dave did the first ascent on his birthday. A bit run-out, move left to feature on face then up between 3-4th bolts.. Hardest route to date (may need another bolt)

Dave Shotwell 2008

22
0
6X bolts
4
  Pre-named before being climbed in 2012. A proud line, after a grubby start, with an improbable traverse and devious climbing at the top.

Howie McGee, 2012

RB
16
0
7X bolts
 

The Siesta Wall- There are a lot of bolts. Many variations possible.

A line of bolts up a water streak. Good climbing. At 4th bolt move left and clip bolt out right on Faux Fur (with plenty of extension) to protect crux, then move up to a 2 bolt anchor up and left of water streak, tricky finish

Wendy & Simon Courtois 2007

FF
17
0
7X bolts
  Instead of traversing left on previous route at 4/5 bolt go up thru to anchors above grassy ledge. There is a different set of chains (right of “R. B”).
Ia
17
0
7X bolts
  Go up and right of “R.B.” Line of bolts up black streak. Steepens at top, lots of bolts.
19
0
7X bolts
  Go 2/3rds the way up Insomnia, move right then scum up a groove, grab the saddle horn and ride… move up and right on friction finish.
AS
17
0
7X bolts
  From the start of “R.B.” move right and up following 4-5 bolts climbing over a steep step near the top. 2 bolt anchor.
Attribution: 
Simon Courtois
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