Place info

Upper Walls

(6 routes)

n/a

  • South

    Aspect

  • 2100m

    Altitude

New Zealand map
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South
Altitude: 
2100m

n/a

Access: 

To reach these routes, scramble up scree until you can traverse across the big shelf above the Hourglass
Wall. Be aware that snow may be present on the summit and on the descent to the col between Cloudy
and Ferrar Peaks.

Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
GP
3+ 14 , 11 , 11 , 13 , 11 , 11 , 11 , 14 , 12
2.01
350m
Natural gear required
 

This striking buttress is clearly seen from far down in the Havelock Valley. The first ascent climbed a steep gully north of the Hourglass Wall to reach the Prow, but since then it has been accessed from the shelf to the right (as described). Start just to the right of the prow of the buttress on steep cracks. The pitch descriptions are somewhat generalised and should not be taken too literally. There are doubtless several variants.

From the top of the route scramble easily to the summit of Cloudy Peak in about 30 minutes. Just before the summit, a ridge (South East Ridge) joins from the right which leads to the col between Cloudy and Ferrar Peaks and a long scree slope back to the Cloudy Stream valley. There is often a patch of snow near the top which may have to be traversed.

  1. Climb steep cracks with a small bulge about 15m up (crux).
  2. Follow the line of the buttress on broken rock with deviations where necessary.
  3. As above.
  4. Move out right to avoid a smooth section, and then up short steep crack to rejoin the ridge.
  5. Skirt the prominent overhang on the left.
  6. Continue up, generally following the line of the Prow.
  7. As above
  8. From the crest move left into a steep, broken gully with grey rock, and follow the left crack.
  9. Continue up the same line on easier rock to the shoulder of the Prow.

John Entwisle, Chris Moore, 1979

Ps
3 19
1.02
350m
Natural gear required
  The huge, smooth red wall.

Steve Elder, Bill McLeod, 1990

MC
3 15
0
350m
Natural gear required
  Takes the prominent chimney, although it’s often necessary to climb slabs on either side to avoid loose rock. About 11 pitches, with the climbing easier and the rock looser towards the top.

Roger Garrett, Richard Struthers, 1980

QD
4
0
200m
  Mixed climbing, thin ice, marginal pro. Five pitches.

Brian Alder, Dave Fearnley, 1990

ND
3 16
2.01
200m
Natural gear required
  The Needle is a striking feature of the bluffs below the South West Ridge, just right of the Great Prow. Scramble up scree gullies for about 50m to the start. Mostly climb the crack just left of the arête. Five ptiches. Abseil off the top into a rotten gully, then scramble to the main ridge.

Marty Beare, Lindsay Main, 1980

21
0
60m
Natural gear required
  ‘Obvious sharp arête left of substantial face heading to the South West Ridge, two fixed pegs.’

Steve Elder 1990

Attribution: 
Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club
This place appears in: 
Barron Saddle – Mt Brewster: a guide for climbers
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