Hourglass & Centre Walls

(14 routes)

Place info

Hourglass & Centre Walls

(14 routes)

The big wall, on the lower west side of Cloudy Pk.

  • West

    Aspect

  • 1500m

    Altitude

New Zealand map
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
West
Altitude: 
1500m

The big wall, on the lower west side of Cloudy Pk.

Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
Dm
24
0
150m
Natural gear required
 

Centre Wall

Start 100 metres left of the main corner below the Great Prow. Four pitches to the big ledge through the main overhang. Some bolts and bolt belays.

Martyn Clark, Bill McLeod, 1992

Ub
22
1.02
180m
Natural gear required
  Good wall climbing to reach grooves and then overhangs. Five pitches, some bolts, bolt belays.

Bill McLeod, Peter Dickson, 1992

MI
17
0
325m
Natural gear required
 

Hourglass Wall

Eight pitches on the left of the wall : the first four climb up to and through the big roof ; the route then follows the prominent diagonal up and right, easier climbing but few runners.

Marty Beare, Lindsay Main, 1981

MA
19
1.02
300m
Natural gear required
  This direct finish to the previous route makes a more sustained climb. Move left onto the face and up for four pitches, once the diagonal is reached.

Steve Elder, Bill McLeod, 1990

BD
25
0
300m
7X bolts
Natural gear required
  Tackles the most impressive features on the wall : climb over three sets of overhangs to reach the big arch. Through this and across the big roof (crux, bolts) and straight up the wall above.

Bill McLeod, Peter Dickson, 1991

FR
20
2.01
280m
Natural gear required
One or more images in route detail.
1
  The first route through the spectacular overhangs on the left side of the wall. Nine pitches – the roof pitch and the wall above are very good. Finish up the Mission Impossible diagonal.

James Jenkins, Lindsay Main, 1980

FL
17
1.02
80m
Natural gear required
2
  Yup, frog. Two good pitches on the compact orange rock of the upper wall. Accessed by abseil.

Fiona Bowie, Richard Thomson, 1987

SM
21
0
300m
Natural gear required
  ‘The line of greatest resistance.’ Sustained climbing up to and through the main overhang via corner systems at its right-hand end.

Peter Dickson, Bill McLeod, 1991

HL
19
0
300m
Natural gear required
  The big natural line in the centre of the wall. Three good pitches (crux on first pitch) are followed by uninteresting climbing in loose, vegetated gullies and chimneys.

Marty Beare, Lindsay Main, 1980

HR
16
0
300m
Natural gear required
  The bottom right line of the ‘hourglass’ is sometimes loose and sometimes barely protectable.

Brent Davis, Brian Fish, 1981

19
1.02
300m
Natural gear required
One or more images in route detail.
 

Sustained climbing, spaced protection, immaculate rock.

P1 - 50m (19) Start on right hand edge of overhangs. Up vegetated terrain to rib and onto face above. Traverse left to belay in second groove. Excavation of protection was required on this pitch.
P2 - 45m (16) up grove to shallow right corner. Belayed below roof.
P3 - 10m (10) Traversed left, belayed in the 'Hourglass Right' groove.
P4 - 50m (19) Traverse right then straight up through roof. Heading right up shallow cracks which are fused and rounded higher up.
P5 - 20m (19) Right hand side of shallow recessed corner
P6 - 25m (17) Bridging up twin cracks then step right to corner and up to large ledge.
P7 - 30m (18) The sneaky groove through the roof. Traverse left along ledge to an awkward belay on wall above.
P8 - 50m (17) Traversing right following cracks, through a small corner chimney then up onto large ledge. Belay in top left corner
P9 - 30m (15) Traverse right then up right leaning crack to scree slope.

Walked off by traversing right.

Michael Eatson, Tawny Wagstaff. March 2016.

US
18
0
300m
Natural gear required
  Some delightful climbing on a direct line, following the enigmatic left-facing feature.

Steve Elder, Bill McLeod, 1990

Yg
17
2.01
250m
Natural gear required
  Five good pitches on sound rock, sometimes committing and exposed.

Marty Beare, Lindsay Main, 1981

SA
15
0
200m
Natural gear required
  Sustained and enjoyable, meandering but logical. Climb the right-hand side of the wall.

James Jenkins, Lindsay Main, 1980

Attribution: 
Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club
This place appears in: 
The Canterbury Westland Alps: a climbing and transalpine guide
This site is a beta version.