Place info

Pyramid Face

(3 routes)

(L to R) Ozone Free, Face to Face, Squirrel, Seagull

New Zealand map
Type: 
Face

(L to R) Ozone Free, Face to Face, Squirrel, Seagull

Access: 

These are on the northern side of the spur after Shadows and Craig. Continue up into the basin between Mt Cran and the Mt Lloyd outlier buttress.

Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
1.19
17 , 17 , 21 , 15 , 9
0
155m
Natural gear required
 
  1. This route starts in a small alcove a couple of metres up on the left side of the wall, just right of black argillite bands, climbs a slab passes through two overlap/roofs to each the summit. Pitch 1 grade 17, 40 m
  2. pitch 2 grade 17, 25 m
  3. pitch 3 grade 21, 20 m
  4. pitch 4 grade 15, 40 m
  5. pitch 5 grade 9, 30 m – hand traverse on right side of summit ridge to reach notch and easy descent gully on north side.

Kane Hartill, Nick Sheen, December 1996

1.20
18 , 19 , 19 , 9
0
165m
Natural gear required
 
  1. First belay stance 2-3 metres up groove in middle of wall, 15 metres right of Ozone Free. Pitch 1 grade 18, 50 m up slab following groove crack system and around right edge of overhang.
  2. Pitch 2 grade 19 45 m, skirt right around headwall then up arête and onto face.
  3. Pitch 3 grade 19, 40 m, climbs a fine arête to the bulge then left to gain final face. Trend left up face to airy belay at top of peak.
  4. Pitch 4 - as per pitch 5 Ozone Free. Grade 9, 30 m – hand traverse on right side of summit ridge to reach notch and easy descent gully on north side.

Richard Kimberly, Ingo Machelheidt, December 1996

16
0
  Follow a line up a textbook arête for two pitches before joining FtF at that route’s third pitch. It is a slightly easier alternative to the other routes on the face. It consists of 200 metres of good pink rock.

Dave Bolger, Rupert Gardiner, Rodger Hodson, Grag Larkin, 2012

This place appears in: 
Barron Saddle – Mt Brewster: a guide for climbers
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