Place info

Stony Bay Peak

(27 routes)

Stony Bay Peak is the prominent crag above Akaroa. Lots of possibilities exist here for those with a gorse slasher and a brush ! It has excellent, compact trachyte rock and a lot of the climbs are quite long. The crag is sunny and has a panoramic view overlooking Akaroa Harbour.
History
The first recorded visit was in 1974, resulting in *Asthmatic Hedgehog (17) by Hugh Logan. Visits in the mid-70s were sporadic and not much was done, until Rick McGregor put up *Ubique (19) in 1979. In the early 80s John Howard, Brent Davis and Brian Fish did various routes, notably *Spice (20) and ***Afterdinnermint (23), but many of these efforts were not recorded. Since then the crag seems to have been neglected.
Climbing Notes
Take a slasher, since the crag suffers from gorse around the base. Descent routes are round each end, down a gully near Anorexic Banana, or down the big gully in the middle of the crag.
Another stratagey for climbing here is to walk to the summit[45 mins], abseil into the base of the climbs then climb out.
A few easier routes that have no particular merit a re not recorded here. There is confusion about the exact position of some routes. Be sure to visit the Akaroa fish & chip shop on your way home.

  • West

    Aspect

  • 45min

    Walk in

  • 500m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
West
Altitude: 
500m

Stony Bay Peak is the prominent crag above Akaroa. Lots of possibilities exist here for those with a gorse slasher and a brush ! It has excellent, compact trachyte rock and a lot of the climbs are quite long. The crag is sunny and has a panoramic view overlooking Akaroa Harbour.
History
The first recorded visit was in 1974, resulting in *Asthmatic Hedgehog (17) by Hugh Logan. Visits in the mid-70s were sporadic and not much was done, until Rick McGregor put up *Ubique (19) in 1979. In the early 80s John Howard, Brent Davis and Brian Fish did various routes, notably *Spice (20) and ***Afterdinnermint (23), but many of these efforts were not recorded. Since then the crag seems to have been neglected.
Climbing Notes
Take a slasher, since the crag suffers from gorse around the base. Descent routes are round each end, down a gully near Anorexic Banana, or down the big gully in the middle of the crag.
Another stratagey for climbing here is to walk to the summit[45 mins], abseil into the base of the climbs then climb out.
A few easier routes that have no particular merit a re not recorded here. There is confusion about the exact position of some routes. Be sure to visit the Akaroa fish & chip shop on your way home.

Access: 

Access is either from the low road to Akaroa by turning off on Long Bay Road and following this to the junction with the Summit Road, or via the Summit Road itself from Hilltop. From the junction with Long Bay Road, take the unsealed road south (Purple Peak Road) until it ends at one of the nicest spots on the peninsula.
From the carpark follow the track towards the crag, at the saddle there is the Summit Track, turn left and follow the slightly overgrown track up the hil to the summit of Stoney Bay Peak, you are now directly above the climbs on the right hand side of the crag.
There is about a 45 minute walk to the crag.
Ontanrito Station, including Stony Bay Peak, is now owned by Hinewai Reserve Trust and managed by Hugh Wilson. It is a private reserve but public access is allowed.

Walk time: 
45min
NZMS260: 
N37 105097
Topo50: 
BY25 005 481
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
19
0
14m
2X bolts
Natural gear required
 

Classic. First arete from the Summit Road end. Two bolts.

Joe Arts '93

20
1.02
15m
Natural gear required
 

A cracked overhang on a small isolated buttress on the far L. Up the overhang, then the slab.

Brian Fish '82

20
0
25m
Natural gear required
 

Sloping overhang immediately right of Spice, over lip then up slab. CD's at the lip and large CDs at the top.

SO
15
1.02
15m
1X bolts
 

To the right of the next gully.
The obvious slab with a steep wall to start. One bolt is the only pro.

Rick McGregor (solo) '79

15
0
10m
 

The slab which begins 5m up and R of S.O.. Reach it either via Anorexic Banana or from the top. Climb the slab just inside the line of the arete on the L. No pro.

Rick McGregor (solo) '79

15
0
12m
 

Also on the T.O. slab. Start up the line of holds to the R of T.O. and follow these until level with the top of the flakes. Move R, and then back L diagonally to the top (crux). Zero pro.

Rick McGregor (solo) '79

AB
11
0
25m
Natural gear required
 

The prominent arete to the R of the slabs. Climb the overhang at the bottom at the point of least resistance and proceed up the line of the rib.

Lindsay Main (solo) '79

RA
18
0
25m
Natural gear required
 

Up A.B.. Move R across grassy slabs to spike. R to arete and up.

John Howard

20
0
20m
Natural gear required
 

Black overhanging wall. Bolt belay off to left.

Joe Arts '93

Ps
18
0
20m
Natural gear required
 

3m L of the next rib (which is capped by a roof 15m up). Up a steep groove, past a sloping roof, and up the broken corner above. Variation start: Up the obvious crack to the dead tree, traverse L to join direct line.

Brent Davis

17
0
20m
Natural gear required
 

Climb arete to single bolt belay with two old krabs.

Rob Battersby '93

KM
24
0
25m
3X bolts
Natural gear required
 

Climb through jumble of overhangs. Three bolts and natural pro.

Joe Arts '93

19
0
25m
Natural gear required
 

Up a steep wall/arete to the belay bolt on TKAM.

Hamish Dunn '93

18
0
20m
Natural gear required
 

Starts 4m R of rib. Up steep cracks and through the overhang.

Brent Davis

Ub
19
1.02
40m
Natural gear required
 

A prominent corner capped by a large overhang. Climb to below the L side of the overhang. Traverse R across the wall to the ledge at the foot of the (promine nt) crack. Climb this (crux), and continue round the arete to small bush. Then up to the belay ledge. Or finish directly up the crack (about 21, Brent Davis).

Rick McGregor

NG
19
1.02
40m
Natural gear required
 

A R variation start to Ubique, joining it at the ledge below the prominent exit crack.

Brent Davis '80

Ad
23
3
Natural gear required
 

A 4m 45 degree roof with a fingercrack. Belay on ledge. A second pitch goes up a black wall.

John Howard '80

17
0
30m
Natural gear required
 

Up the square-cut corner (good pro at crux) to a scoop below small bulge, which is turned on the R past the vege. Finish up the rib.

Lindsay Main '79

17
0
25m
Natural gear required
 

An indeterminant crack-line to the R of the large overhangs. Cruxes on the first and last bulges. Unreliable rock.

Lindsay Main '79

18
0
Natural gear required
 

Starts in L-facing corner (good pro). L onto the wall, bridge up L to a recess (poor pro), exit L off a square block.

11
0
30m
Natural gear required
 

The next routes are well to the R, past the gorse-filled gully.
R of some easy slabs, a long L-angling corner. Steep at the bottom.

Andrew Smith (solo) '74

16
0
25m
Natural gear required
 

Start up Hedonist to where it gets easy. A small flake leads across the R wall to the finish of Spunk.

Lindsay Main

14
0
25m
Natural gear required
 

3m R of H. An obvious crack in a V-groove.

Andrew Smith (solo)

13
0
20m
Natural gear required
 

2m R of S., a corner with a wide crack with a red R wall.

13
0
20m
Natural gear required
 

4m R of R.R.. A technical start followed by a grassy gully.

10
0
 

Follows a series of flakes. Steepest at the bottom.

17
1.02
18m
Natural gear required
 

A sharp-cut corner. Crux about 4m up.

Hugh Logan '74

Attribution: 
By Lindsay Main Previously hosted on a website by John Davis Copied on by Grant Piper

Comments

Comments

Now is the time to go to check out this crag, a fire has recently been trough here and burnt the gorse leaving a surreal scorched forest which breaks easy and a trail can quickly be trodden, just don't wear your Sunday best. So a good time to go and blaze a trail before the gorse comes back hard and fast. Excellent place for a day out on the rock, this place need traffic people! Go get some.

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