Stony Bay Peak is the prominent crag above Akaroa. Lots of possibilities exist here for those with a gorse slasher and a brush ! It has excellent, compact trachyte rock and a lot of the climbs are quite long. The crag is sunny and has a panoramic view overlooking Akaroa Harbour.
History
The first recorded visit was in 1974, resulting in *Asthmatic Hedgehog (17) by Hugh Logan. Visits in the mid-70s were sporadic and not much was done, until Rick McGregor put up *Ubique (19) in 1979. In the early 80s John Howard, Brent Davis and Brian Fish did various routes, notably *Spice (20) and ***Afterdinnermint (23), but many of these efforts were not recorded. Since then the crag seems to have been neglected.
Climbing Notes
Take a slasher, since the crag suffers from gorse around the base. Descent routes are round each end, down a gully near Anorexic Banana, or down the big gully in the middle of the crag.
Another stratagey for climbing here is to walk to the summit[45 mins], abseil into the base of the climbs then climb out. There are two in situ bolt belays situated roughly 20m NE of the summit. Due to the current thickness of gorse this seems to be the only current feasible access point to the base of the crag without a slasher.
A few easier routes that have no particular merit a re not recorded here. There is confusion about the exact position of some routes. Be sure to visit the Akaroa fish & chip shop on your way home.
Access is either from the low road to Akaroa by turning off on Long Bay Road and following this to the junction with the Summit Road, or via the Summit Road itself from Hilltop. From the junction with Long Bay Road, take the unsealed road south (Purple Peak Road) until it ends at one of the nicest spots on the peninsula.
From the carpark follow the track towards the crag, at the saddle there is the Summit Track, turn left and follow the slightly overgrown track up the hil to the summit of Stoney Bay Peak, you are now directly above the climbs on the right hand side of the crag.
There is about a 45 minute walk to the crag.
Ontanrito Station, including Stony Bay Peak, is now owned by Hinewai Reserve Trust and managed by Hugh Wilson. It is a private reserve but public access is allowed.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bootless | 19 | 14m | 2  |
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| Spice | 20 | 15m | |
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| Red Hot Chilli Peppers | 20 | 25m | |
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| SO | Stepping Out | 15 | 15m | 1 |
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| Taking Off | 15 | 10m | |
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| Simple Sidle | 15 | 12m | |
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| AB | Anorexic Banana | 11 | 25m | |
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| RA | Big Red Arete | 18 | 25m | |
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| The Empty Quarter | 20 | 20m | |
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| Ps | Psychoslut | 18 | 20m | |
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| un-named | 17 | 20m | |
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| KM | To Kill a Mockingbird | 24 | 25m | 3 |
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| un-named | 19 | 25m | |
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| Brent's Route | 18 | 20m | |
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| Ub | Ubique | 19 | 40m | |
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| NG | Nocturnal Goatsucker | 19 | 40m | |
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| Ad | Afterdinnermint | 23 | |
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| Hypochrondria | 17 | 30m | |
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| Astigmatism | 17 | 25m | |
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| Fester | 18 | |
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| Hedonist | 11 | 30m | |
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| Delusions of Grandeur | 16 | 25m | |
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| Spunk | 14 | 25m | |
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| Red Rooster | 13 | 20m | |
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| Interjection | 13 | 20m | |
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| Devil's Advocate | 10 | 0m | |
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| Asthmatic Hedgehog | 17 | 18m | |
Now is the time to go to check out this crag, a fire has recently been trough here and burnt the gorse leaving a surreal scorched forest which breaks easy and a trail can quickly be trodden, just don't wear your Sunday best. So a good time to go and blaze a trail before the gorse comes back hard and fast. Excellent place for a day out on the rock, this place need traffic people! Go get some.