Screaming Whippets Crag

(22 routes)

Place info

Screaming Whippets Crag

(22 routes)

The RH side of the crag faces S, the left end SW. Towards the LH end is a very large roof above a L facing corner with bush. Green Groove is the groove/crack just L. At the LH end, on the last rock of any note is

Type: 
Crag

The RH side of the crag faces S, the left end SW. Towards the LH end is a very large roof above a L facing corner with bush. Green Groove is the groove/crack just L. At the LH end, on the last rock of any note is

NZMS260: 
N36 923169
Topo50: 
BX24 823 553
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
15
0
Natural gear required
  Start on large block, LW up crack, then horizontals to rib with OH. Follow.

Alan Hill, Eric Stevens & Karl Yager 2006

20
0
Natural gear required
  Thin vertical crack 1m R.

Peter Whitworth, Jo Arts & Alan Hill 2009

19
0
Natural gear required
  Just R again is a thin crack with break on L. Up this (start from block on R) then left with feet in break, and up slabs.

Alan Hill, Eric Stevens & Matt Ware 2006

19
1.02
Natural gear required
  3m R is a groove with twin thin seams, small fuschia at bottom. Up this, then finish up the RH of two grooves.

Peter Gresham, Eric Stevens and Alan Hill 2006

19
0
Natural gear required
  Just to R is a RW trending crack/groove, continue up face then move R to finish up corner (or finish more directly up arete as for next route)

Alan Hill, Eric Stevens & Karl Yager 2006

19
0
Natural gear required
  The next groove is unclimbed, then down and 2m R is a groove/crack above shrub and horizontal crack at 2m. Continue up the arete to the L of Peenuts corner.

Joe Arts and Alam Hill 2009

16
0
Natural gear required
  To the R is an arched cave. Groove with crack and bush just R of cave, finishing up juggy corner with rata vine.

Eric Stevens, Alan Hill & Pete Gresham 2006

18
0
Natural gear required
  The broad rib to the R. Good micro cam in break.

Alan Hill, Joe Arts, Peter Whitworth

20
0
Natural gear required
  Just R, behind flax. R trending crack, fisig as for SW. Variation finish The L-trending corner crack, just L of the easy exit.

FA Alan Hill, Pete Gresham and Eric Stevens 2006Variation finish The L-trending corner crack, just L of the easy exit. Lindsay Main, Joe Arts, Felix Collins 2009

15
0
Natural gear required
  The rib just R of vegetated groove with flax, starting from the L and working RW to the break.

Joe Arts and Felix Collins

20
1.02
Natural gear required
  5m R of ATTW is a groove with piton. Up this, move L and through stepped roof.

Alan Hill, Eric Stevens & Matt Ware 2006

16
0
Natural gear required
  Groove with veg L of big roof above L facing corner

Pete Gresham, Eric Stevens and Alan Hill 2006

21
2.01
Natural gear required
  Climb the corner with shrub to the OH. Traverse L under the roof and up corner.

Alan Hill and Peter Whitworth 2009

14
0
Natural gear required
  Climb to shrub below big roof, step R and finish up RH side of roof.

Eric Stevens, Alan Hill & Matt Ware 2006

22
0
Natural gear required
  10m to the R. Stepped R-facing corner above LH end of ledge which slopes down to the R. Finish through the roof.

Josh Hudson, Joe Arts and Alan Hill 2009

23
2.01
Natural gear required
  Made from girders. Curved crack to the R.

Alan Hill, Josh Hudson and Joe Arts 2009

14
0
Natural gear required
  Just R, cracked groove with bush, capped by roof.

Alan Hill, Eric Stevens & Matt Ware 2006

18
0
Natural gear required
  6m R. Corner with thin crack. Cams to XL.

Joe Arts, Josh Hudson and Alan Hill 2009

13
0
Natural gear required
  4m R, just past groove with flax. Gain groove just R of the edge (crux) and up (easy but poor pro) to the base of final wall with skyline flax. Head LW up groove with bush and up chimney with blocks.

Alan Hill and Peter Whitworth 2009

16
0
Natural gear required
  5m R are two adjacent corners capped by blocky OHs. The RH corner, exiting R onto Didymo.

Peter Whitworth & Alan Hill 2009

13
0
Natural gear required
  The arete to the R, just L of bush

Alan Hill, Eric Stevens & Karl Yager 2006

14
0
Natural gear required
  Another 5m R, the short brown face

Karl Yager Alan Hill & Eric Stevens 2006

Attribution: 
Allan Hill
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