Place info

Peraki Valley

(6 routes)

Long slabs and high red faces hidden in a picturesque valley on the south side of the Banks Peninsula. Two of the longest routes near Christchurch were put up here in 06/07, and there is plenty of territory left to develop. A bit of a drive and bush-bash to get to, but well worth it if you like bolted slabs and exposed sport routes.

  • East

    Aspect

  • 45 mins

    Walk in

  • 300m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
East
Altitude: 
300m

Long slabs and high red faces hidden in a picturesque valley on the south side of the Banks Peninsula. Two of the longest routes near Christchurch were put up here in 06/07, and there is plenty of territory left to develop. A bit of a drive and bush-bash to get to, but well worth it if you like bolted slabs and exposed sport routes.

Access: 

The cliffs themselves are in the DoC Devils Gap Reserve, but the paddocks are privately owned. The farmer, Dave Patello, is happy to allow access as long as the usual farm protocols regarding gates, stock, dogs, etc are observed. Avoid this area during lambing (Sep-Oct). PERMISSION REQUIRED so please contact the farm before climbing here by phoning 325 1305.

From Christchurch, just before entering Little River township, turn right into Okuti Valley Rd. Head up Kinloch Road, to Bossu Road. Follow Bossu Rd east ~5-6kms to the 4-way intersection. Turn right, down into Peraki Valley. Park at the stock pens on the left, and cross the paddocks following the fence line. From the stream go up through the manuka, cross the paddocks through a gap in the bush, and head up the end of the paddock to the Reserve. Cross the fence and find the track to the cliffs. Currently (2008!) there are two orange tape markers in the bush about 30 metres from the fence. Past the second tape at a cairn, turn directly up the hill to a clearing, from which orange flagging tape leads to the cliffs at the base of 30 Pieces Of Silver. The track along the base of the cliff is very rough.

Walk time: 
45 mins
NZMS260: 
N37 968 090
Topo50: 
BY24 868 474
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
17
0
30m
8X bolts
  The first three routes are on the triangular slab on the far left side of the crag. This is the left-most route on the slab. Scramble up a few metres to a ledge just below the first bolt. The route steepens near the top and finishes to the left of the roof. A 60 metre rope will reach the base of the climb. With a 50 metre rope, abseil to the mid station on Stairway.

Gary Kearns, 2008

14 ,16
0
40m
9X bolts
2
 
  1. A bit right of centre, step out from behind the Manuka tree to find the first bolt. Pretty much self explanatory from there.
  2. Some nice thin moves. Abseil from the fixed sling around a tree.

Gabriel Lincourt, Paul Thompson, 2007

16
0
40m
9X bolts
2
  The arching route on the right side of the triangular slab. Starting at the far right edge of the slab, climb up the narrow buttress. Traverse left across the very low angled slab and out over the gulley. Continue straight up past the last couple bolts to the trees. Delicate climbing.

Gabriel Lincourt, 2008

21 ,17 ,13
0
68m
14X bolts
 
  1. Start up a mossy slab or scramble up on the left to a ledge, and then move up to clip a high first bolt. Some good moves on clean rock lead to the crux at a bulge, which is followed by nice slab climbing with a bit of a run-out to the anchor.
  2. Continue up an easy-angled narrow tongue of rock beside vegetation and move left to steeper pocketed rock, trending left past the scrub and up to the anchor.
  3. Walk about five metres right along the ledge to a broadleaf and set up the anchor here. Climb a crack past a manuka and traverse leftward across the slab, and up to the anchor at the base of the corner. A further pitch is possible.

Lindsay Main, Felix Collins, 2013.

21 ,22 ,10
0
75m
24X bolts
1
 
  1. Hard start leads to easy slab climbing, followed by a steep bulge.
  2. Up the arete, quality climbing
  3. Scramble up the slab.

Gabriel Lincourt, Rowan Sinton, Gary Kearns, 2007

17 ,16 ,19
0
75m
24X bolts
 
  1. About 50m right of the central buttress is this 80m slab. Scramble up the scrubby low angle arete and/or adjacent gully for about 70m to the ledge behind the manukas (fixed line for the upper 30m). nice climbing right off the anchor on well featured slabby terrain.
  2. crux at the small roof.
  3. shortest pitch. Circle the stacked blocks at the base of the overhanging face. Two or three steep moves on the face (V1/2ish?), then easy slab climbing to the last anchors.

Gary Kearns, Gabriel Lincourt, Rowan Sinton, 2007

Attribution: 
Information: Gabriel Lincourt Posted by: Grant Piper Edited by: Lindsay Main

Comments

Comments

Access details edited for clarification. Grant's topo replaced by Gabe's original topo.

Thank You

Introduction to Leipziger expanded; descent information edited.

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