The very obvious large cliff, home to the cleanest, longest, and steepest lines, including the mega-classic White Wizard.
Descent:
The Main Cliff has recently been equipped with modern DBAs enabling easy descent with a single 60 m rope. There are DBAs at the top of the good climbing (25-30 m mark) on lovely belay ledges on Son of Hangman and nearby on White Wizard (on the same ledge system). An additional DBA at the very top of the cliff (if you are inclined to an alpine-esque adventure through the deteriorating rock) means you can now top out on any route and abseil easily to the White Wizard DBA (watch for choss in the gully). An older style DBA (chains) is located at about the 20 m mark, somewhat hidden and tucked on a steep wall, on Staccato or Silver Lining (or possibly Spring Fever?). A Spike lower-off is also available at 35m on Son of Hangman which enables descending before the final earthquake-loosened upper band.
The 'easy descent gully' referenced in older guidebooks and beta is now a serious gorse and scrub bash and no longer a good descent route. In addition, the gully and its vegetated walls are home to subalpine vegetation that is extremely rare on Banks Peninsula and must be treated with care.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Craig's Wall | 22 | 12m | ||||
Straight and Narrow | 14 | 15m | ||||
Dead End | 15 | 15m | ||||
G | Garlic | 15 | 10m | |||
UE | Unlimited Edition | 22 | 14m | 1 | ||
Easy Chimney | 10 | |||||
MA | Maggie | 19 | 15m | 1 | ||
IM | Iron Man Direct Finish | 22 | 14m | 1 | ||
Iron Man | 20 | 15m | ||||
SU | Set Up | 18 | 15m | |||
La Folie | 21 | 15m | 1 | |||
Spring of Discontent | 21 | |||||
Scratchy Crack | 14 | 18m | ||||
CC | Crime of the Century | 17 | 35m | |||
P | Prospero | 22 | 35m | 1 | ||
SH | Son of Hangman | 17 | 35m | |||
The Grey Ghost | 21 | 35m | ||||
TM | Thorn Mother | 26 | 35m | 4 | ||
WW | White Wizard | 22 | 35m | |||
Thin White Duke | 23 | 35m | ||||
Ju | Jubilee | 21 | 35m | |||
CC | Cripple Crack | 19 | 35m | |||
Staccato | 20 | 33m | ||||
Silver Lining | 19 | 30m | ||||
SF | Spring Fever | 19 | 30m | |||
Fear of Frying | 18 | |||||
Pop Goes The Weasel | 20 | |||||
Floozie In The Jaccuzi | 20 | |||||
Bride in the Bath | 16 | 18m | ||||
Fillet of Calf | 17 | |||||
Aegrotat | 10 | 0m |