Skip to main content

Main Wall

Type
Altitude
650m
Part of

The very obvious large cliff, home to the cleanest, longest, and steepest lines, including the mega-classic White Wizard.
Descent:
The Main Cliff has recently been equipped with modern DBAs enabling easy descent with a single 60 m rope. There are DBAs at the top of the good climbing (25-30 m mark) on lovely belay ledges on Son of Hangman and nearby on White Wizard (on the same ledge system). An additional DBA at the very top of the cliff (if you are inclined to an alpine-esque adventure through the deteriorating rock) means you can now top out on any route and abseil easily to the White Wizard DBA (watch for choss in the gully). An older style DBA (chains) is located at about the 20 m mark, somewhat hidden and tucked on a steep wall, on Staccato or Silver Lining (or possibly Spring Fever?). A Spike lower-off is also available at 35m on Son of Hangman which enables descending before the final earthquake-loosened upper band.
The 'easy descent gully' referenced in older guidebooks and beta is now a serious gorse and scrub bash and no longer a good descent route. In addition, the gully and its vegetated walls are home to subalpine vegetation that is extremely rare on Banks Peninsula and must be treated with care.

Image
Image
Aspect
North
Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
Craig's Wall 22 12m
0
Straight and Narrow 14 15m
0
Dead End 15 15m
0
G Garlic 15 10m
0
UE Unlimited Edition 22 14m 1
1.02
Easy Chimney 10
0
MA Maggie 19 15m 1
0
IM Iron Man Direct Finish 22 14m 1
0
Iron Man 20 15m
1.02
SU Set Up 18 15m
1.02
La Folie 21 15m 1
0
Spring of Discontent 21
0
Scratchy Crack 14 18m
0
CC Crime of the Century 17 35m
0
P Prospero 22 35m 1
1.02
SH Son of Hangman 17 35m
2.01
The Grey Ghost 21 35m
1.02
TM Thorn Mother 26 35m 4
2.01
WW White Wizard 22 35m
3
Thin White Duke 23 35m
2.01
Ju Jubilee 21 35m
1.02
CC Cripple Crack 19 35m
1.02
Staccato 20 33m
0
Silver Lining 19 30m
1.02
SF Spring Fever 19 30m
1.02
Fear of Frying 18
0
Pop Goes The Weasel 20
1.02
Floozie In The Jaccuzi 20
0
Bride in the Bath 16 18m
0
Fillet of Calf 17
0
Aegrotat 10 0m
0
Comments
This place appears in
UUID
 
999904ba-2f1b-4159-be18-a8c25fceff71