Place info

Fantasy Factory

(49 routes)

The cliff is on the west side of the spur which runs down to Diamond Harbour from Herbert Peak. The Fantasy Factory is the larger, more obvious cliff; just below the top of the spur, overlooking Charteris Bay. It is sheltered from easterly winds.
Access is from Charteris Bay, along Bayview Road (turn R off the main road before the yacht club). Drive along Bayview for approx 1.5km and turn right up Doris Faigan Lane. Currently (June 2014) Bayview Road is closed at both ends, but driving access is available by continuing along the main road to the Diamond Harbour store and turning right on to Hunters Road. Where this meets Bayview Road turn right to Doris Faigan Lane. At the top of the Lane go over the cattlestop and up past the house to park under the trees near the water tanks. If a car isn't available, a launch can be caught to Diamond Harbour.
Go through the gate and walk up the spur for several hundred metres until opposite the top of the cliff, sidling above a patch of gorse to pick up a track marked with red and faded pink tape which descends to the base of the cliff.
History
As can be seen from the names of these crags and some of their climbs, there was a post-hippy boom going on in Christchurch at this time. The cliff was discovered in 1975 by Tim Wethey and Mike Franklin. Wethey produced the excellent **Shortcut To Mushrooms (18), and *Mindbender (20), one of the hardest Peninsula climbs at the time. Mike Franklin contributed **Bitterfingers (16). In 1979-80, John Howard contributed the hardest route on the cliff at the time, *Birdbrain (22). In the late 90s there was a resurgence of new sport & trad routes by Richard Kimberley, Tony Burnell & Alan Hill.
Climbing Notes
Descent routes at each cliff are simply around either end of the cliff or 30m rap off the bolts above "Not Crack But Still Ecstasy" (take an extra rope and set up a permanent rap).

  • West

    Aspect

  • 20 min

    Walk in

  • 350m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
West
Altitude: 
350m

The cliff is on the west side of the spur which runs down to Diamond Harbour from Herbert Peak. The Fantasy Factory is the larger, more obvious cliff; just below the top of the spur, overlooking Charteris Bay. It is sheltered from easterly winds.
Access is from Charteris Bay, along Bayview Road (turn R off the main road before the yacht club). Drive along Bayview for approx 1.5km and turn right up Doris Faigan Lane. Currently (June 2014) Bayview Road is closed at both ends, but driving access is available by continuing along the main road to the Diamond Harbour store and turning right on to Hunters Road. Where this meets Bayview Road turn right to Doris Faigan Lane. At the top of the Lane go over the cattlestop and up past the house to park under the trees near the water tanks. If a car isn't available, a launch can be caught to Diamond Harbour.
Go through the gate and walk up the spur for several hundred metres until opposite the top of the cliff, sidling above a patch of gorse to pick up a track marked with red and faded pink tape which descends to the base of the cliff.
History
As can be seen from the names of these crags and some of their climbs, there was a post-hippy boom going on in Christchurch at this time. The cliff was discovered in 1975 by Tim Wethey and Mike Franklin. Wethey produced the excellent **Shortcut To Mushrooms (18), and *Mindbender (20), one of the hardest Peninsula climbs at the time. Mike Franklin contributed **Bitterfingers (16). In 1979-80, John Howard contributed the hardest route on the cliff at the time, *Birdbrain (22). In the late 90s there was a resurgence of new sport & trad routes by Richard Kimberley, Tony Burnell & Alan Hill.
Climbing Notes
Descent routes at each cliff are simply around either end of the cliff or 30m rap off the bolts above "Not Crack But Still Ecstasy" (take an extra rope and set up a permanent rap).

Access: 

!!Permission must me granted from 2 sources!!
1 the land owner. Zac Kyle, Please Text 0276041485, and only proceed on a confirmed reply.
2 the land you cross between Doris Faigan Ln, and the crag. Peter Nel 03-329 9116.
No access during September, as it is lambing season.
The usaul behavior applies, leave gates as found.
Walk through from public road, don't drive.
Leave the dog at home!

Walk time: 
20 min
NZMS260: 
M36 877285
Topo50: 
BX24 777 669
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
17
0
12m
Natural gear required
 

On the upper part of the cliff at the left-hand side are three short climbs that all feature very loose blocks, and have little to recommend them...

Climb up the wall for 5m, or start in a loose corner to the right and reach across left to place gear; then move across, taking care to avoid pulling the wobbly blocks off. Step up and jam in the corner. Avoid the blocks at the top by moving left, and anchor at a boulder about five metres back.

John Howard, 1976

DV
15
0
15m
Natural gear required
  The twin cracks in a corner. Up an easy corner to the bulge (crux) and loose blocks, then up the cracks.

John Barnes, 1976

12
0
15m
Natural gear required
  Just right of Double Vision. Up over very loose flakes and blocks, then up a slab on to a ledge and up the corner-crack above

Lindsay Main, 1977

Fn
11
0
25m
Natural gear required
  The first route that goes the full height of the crag. Up grooves and over ledges for about 20m. Then step left and climb the crack over a large block (crux), and finish up the corner.

Lindsay Main, 1977

18
0
28m
Natural gear required
  Pull over the overhang and climb the slabby, lichenous wall with reasonable protection to a ledge at 8 metres. Then up the groove above (gear on the left) to an easy low angle slab. Climb the exit corner, stepping past the bush to the right, and anchor at boulders.

Lindsay Main, 2013

15
0
28m
Natural gear required
  Start on the slab just left of the big corner, moving right for the first gear fairly high at a flake. Step left and climb up to a small cave, then into the groove above. Step right and up (crux) at the overhangs. Over broken ground and into the right-ward slanting crack, finishing on the prow.

Tim Wethey, 1978

17
0
25m
Natural gear required
  Climb Scabiosa to the roof and pass this on the right with a short committing wall to gain the exit crack.

Lindsay Main, 2014.

13
1.02
30m
Natural gear required
  The prominent corner-gully. The first few metres is the hardest, with typical Fantasy side-pulls and down-pressure moves. Climb the gully, traversing right below the big roof. Continue up cracks beside the arête to exit in the right-angle corner.

Tim Wethey, 1975

15
0
30m
Natural gear required
  The crack on the right wall of the gully. Continue up directly, and exit slightly right in the same corner.

Lindsay Main, 1978

14
0
30m
Natural gear required
  A variation starting up Scabiosa, but moving out to the arête after a few metres. Same finish.

Dave Fearnley, 1979

16
1.02
30m
Natural gear required
  On the wall to the left of the big gully with the overhanging headwall. Up an indistinct groove to a small roof at about eight metres marked with bright yellow lichen. Continue up the crack and directly over ledges to exit in a shallow groove left of the prow, or up the steep crack. Double bolt and chain anchor.

Tim Wethey, 1975

17
0
28m
Natural gear required
  Start as for Twinkle Toes behind the cabbage tree and step left to the vague groove below the roof. Place a vital wire securely below the roof, then step down slightly and traverse left on good holds to meet the left-facing corner and crack. Thread a sling for pro and climb through the small overhang, and then follow an easy ramp up and left a bit with spaced protection. Carry on and exit up the crack just left of the prominent prow. Double bolt and chain anchor.

Lindsay Main, 2011

18
0
28m
Natural gear required
  Start with the same traverse left from the cabbage tree and climb the groove to the roof. Pull through on good holds, stepping right to a hidden crack for gear. Follow the weakness to a tiny bush and balance up the wall (crux) to a good crack with easy climbing to the ledge. A technical sequence follows up an improbable looking wall with vertical edges to a small ledge. Take the same exit up the crack left of the summit prow.

Lindsay Main, 2014

NR
19
2.01
28m
Natural gear required
  Start at the small cabbage tree and climb the roof above the tree, with good small gear at the lip followed by a large spike and sling runner. Balance up a vague groove (small wire) to good holds and then a crack. Step left around the pillar and up a few metres to the same technical wall section as for the previous route, leading to a steep thin crack below the bulging prow. Climb the crack and step around to the right of the prow to finish.

Alan Hill, 1999; direct finish Lindsay Main, 2015

Bb
22
0
30m
Natural gear required
  Climb the easy gully which is plastered with birdshit, crossing the mid-height diamond shaped roof on the left. Continue up, climbing flakes and edges in the centre of the gully with spaced protection to gain the slab under the capping roof, which is climbed in the centre.

John Howard, 1979

20
0
30m
Natural gear required
  Up the gully as for Birdbrain, but above the diamond roof move right to the corner and climb to the roof. Layback around the roof to a steep and committing exit. With the increase in pigeon pooh during recent years, this route cannot be recommended.

Tim Wethey, 1975

CE
23
3
30m
8X bolts
Natural gear required
  Start on the left side of the slabby wall. After the first bolt move up left into a blocky corner (wire placement). Continue up and slightly right to an overlap with a bolt on the slab above. (Hard move to stand on the slab). Using the arête above continue up, traverse left under the roof and pull through at its left side, standing up and moving slightly left to a huge perch. (Bolt in groove to right). Move round into the groove and climb more easily up, then slightly right and continue up the groove to the top. Eight bolts and wires. There is also a direct start and alternative finish by Richard at 24.

Richard Kimberley, 1998

SC
18
3
30m
Natural gear required
One or more images in route detail.
2
  A classic seventies crack climb - the obvious corner with a roof five metres up. Awkward jamming through the roof and up the crack to easier climbing above. Exit right on the ramp to abseil anchors in a large boulder directly above. There is also a direct finish through a small roof and up a shallow crack (19).

Tim Wethey, 1975

21
0
30m
Natural gear required
  Start on the face two metres right and climb through a small overlap at four metres (cam placement right under the roof), or by an easier option on the edge to the right. Up the groove to a protruding block, step left to slabby rock and a short knobbly corner to gain the ledge. Finish up a minimally-protected hanging groove (small cam under a flake to the right), and top out as for Short Cut To Mushrooms.

Alan Hill (left finish), Dale Miller (direct finish), 1999

20
0
30m
Natural gear required
  Excellent climbing with tricky protection up the wall at a weakness three metres right of Short Cut To Mushrooms. Then climb over blocks in the corner and out the right side of the bulge above. From the ledge continue up the right-leaning groove (sling runner) with improving protection and hard climbing all the way.

John Howard, 1978

Rt
17
0
25m
Natural gear required
  This wandering and poorly protected route starts in a vague groove. At five metres traverse left into the corner with marginal wires and join Ratchet Direct. Up the corner with better protection, moving right past the bulge to the ledge. Then head off rightward from the ledge up easy ground.

Bill Denz, 1975

23
0
30m
Natural gear required
  Start as for Ratchet straight up the wall to the right of an obvious fin to a large undercut hold (cams). Bridge up and rock over left; gain a slab (wires) before finishing up the Ratchet normal finish. Natural protection, scary.

Tony Burnell, 1998

23
0
30m
Natural gear required
  Climb into a small niche and left into a vague bottomless groove, then up the groove to where the wall steepens (protection out left). Move up the steep wall past an insitu peg and slightly right to a good hold and gain a slabby ledge (wire). (At this point "Heretic" comes up the blocky corner on the right). Move up again and go left to a ledge and a good standing position on the arête. Back rightwards again to climb the easy wall just right of the final groove of Ratchet. Natural protection, double ropes useful.

Tony Burnell, 1998

24
0
25m
5X bolts
Natural gear required
  A chocolate brown slab capped by a large roof. Climb the brown slab direct to a bolt. Move up and right to the end of the roof, bolt runner. Using small holds come back left to the centre of the roof below a hanging arête. Poor holds give way to sloping holds on the right side groove. Pull into the groove via a pinch grip, bolt runner. Step up and out right onto the arête, bolt runner and finish more easily over the final roof to a double bolt belay above.

Tony Burnell, 1998

20
0
28m
Natural gear required
  Vague groove line, loose blocks at base. An easy start up a wall leads to a hard move past the bulge into a groove. Move left through another bulge and up the next groove.

Phil Herron, 1975

WW
16
0
28m
Natural gear required
  The prominent corner with a roof at six metres (crux). Easier climbing up wide cracks follows, with the angle easing off after 15 metres. Move left to finish and anchor at boulders. Walk left (north) to the abseil anchors on a large boulder.

Mike Franklin, 1975

Bo
18
0
28m
Natural gear required
1
  The thin crack to the right of Women's Weekly. Start under the roof (loose rock), then up the crack and step right to the ledge. Continue with well-spaced protection in the weakness straight up the wall. Tim Wethey, 1975.

Tim Wethey, 1975

19
0
25m
Natural gear required
  Start about six metres right of Bruno, beside the next route. Step left above a small drop onto a steep rib and climb a small groove to a ledge, then move left to a rib with brown rock, and up to a slabby area. At a small spike move left to a groove (still following the brown rock) to gain the top. Good natural protection, though some placements on the lower wall are a bit subtle (mostly wires). Excellent rock.

Lindsay Main, 2000

18
0
25m
Natural gear required
  Climb the flared double groove just right, move right and then back left of the grey rib. Climb the slab and avoid the bulge on knobbly rock to the right; then finish up slabs above with well-spaced protection.

Fraser Munro, 2000

Sa
12
0
25m
Natural gear required
  The heavily vegetated gully with large flakes jutting out. Straight up over the loose blocks and vegetation, then move right after about twelve metres to avoid the jungle.

Lindsay Main, 1978

18
0
25m
Natural gear required
  A metre right, climb the short wall (hardest at the bottom) and pull up over the protruding edges with good protection. Then wander up easy slabs and a steeper corner at the top, or move right to the Prime Suspect anchor bolts and abseil. Alan Hill, 1999.

Alan Hill, 1999

PS
23
0
25m
5X bolts
  Starts behind the cabbage tree. Clip the first bolt and move left and up through the roofs to the hanging corner. Move out left onto the rib, then step right and continue more easily up the arête tending rightward to the anchor for Older Not Bolder. Unfortunately this route takes the worst rock on the crag, and some holds are crumbling.

Tony Burnell, 1998

OB
23
1.02
25m
5X bolts
  Start at the same point as Au Natural but using a deep pocket swing left onto the steep, undercut arête and move up past the first bolt to poor holds. The poor holds continue until a good jug just above the second bolt. Climb directly up the easier wall to the corner, good ledge and bolt runner. High up on the left of the bubbly wall above is a prominent chicken-head, gain this by rocking over and clip the next bolt. Continue more easily up to a ledge with a bolt, finishing up the easy angled grooves to the anchors.

Tony Burnell, 1998

AN
21
0
25m
Natural gear required
  From the right end of the ledge swing up and right into a short groove, which is climbed awkwardly until a standing position can be attained on a pedestal. Continue straight up to good flat holds and a layaway via a small pocket in the face (cam placements in the flaring crack). Straight up the bubbly wall to a good hold and gain the ledges above awkwardly (good cam). Step up right to a slanting crack, (good 2½ Friend). Layback up the crack and when the good edge runs out make a long move left onto flat holds, then finish up good holds onto the slab above and the anchor of Older Not Bolder. Very committing

Tony Burnell, 1998

20
0
Natural gear required
  Vague line a metre right, and two metres left of Bitterfingers. When the crack runs out move right following a groove to a fixed piton, and then pull up leftward over the steep rib. Spaced natural protection, run-out.

Richard Kimberley, 1998

Bf
16
2.01
28m
Natural gear required
  Smooth shallow groove with a curving crack. Excellent climbing. Start slightly right and climb past a bush, then bridge and layback up the groove, and continue over bulges. Sustained.

Mike Franklin, 1975

18
0
28m
Natural gear required
  On the broad arête between Bitterfingers and Rat Race. Place gear in Bitterfingers and traverse out right above the bush at eight metres, and up through a small alcove. Then through a flaky stepped overhang (gear on the left), and up the top wall. Very run-out.

Alan Hill, 2000

RR
16
0
30m
  This route takes the two grooves in the middle of the wall. Start up a steep wall (unprotected), and into a groove. Move L into the other groove and up. Two exits.

Murray Judge, 1975

19
0
28m
Natural gear required
  The slab and arête between Rat Race and Rheumatoid Corner. Hard start just left of the tree to gain the slab; then up the arête (protection to left) and join a thin crack At the bulge midway move right and diagonally through to the grassy groove. Finish up the slab and crack about two metres right of the final arête. The first ascent may have taken different variations. Spaced natural protection.

Alan Hill, 1998

12
0
28m
Natural gear required
  The major corner with two small trees. Lost a boulder during the earthquakes, so look out for residual loose flakes, etc.

Murray Judge, 1975

21
0
20m
5X bolts
  Climbs the face / blunt arête just right of Hit the Deck to a lower off.

Tony Burnell, 2014

HD
21
0
20m
5X bolts
  Start in the small corner on the left and pull up rightward to the first bolt, then easier to the second bolt and hard climbing to clip the third. Pull through the small roof and cruise up the slabby wall, heading rightward to the Roll Up anchors. Five bolts with hangers.

Richard Kimberley, 1998

RU
22
0
20m
5X bolts
  Starts three metres right of the corner, with a shallow groove through a bulge. Strenuous moves on small holds in the middle. Shares a double anchor chain with the next two routes. Five bolts with chain links. Good climbing.

Tony Burnell, 1998

WE
23
0
20m
5X bolts
  A metre right. Hard bouldery start just left of the obvious groove to a precarious position on the wall above the initial roof. Move up to the large roof and continue gymnastically upwards in to a shallow scoop on the lip. Easier climbing up horizontal breaks, then climb a shallow crack before exiting rightwards to the anchors.

Tony Burnell, 1998

WK
23
0
20m
5X bolts
  Starts in the centre of the buttress where a shallow right facing corner leads up to the roof. Climb awkwardly up to the roof and strenuously over it into a shallow scoop. Horizontal breaks enable a standing position to be achieved, exit easily leftwards across the upper wall to the anchors.

Tony Burnell, 1998

MM
24
0
18m
5X bolts
  Start up the slabby wall and move left to the hanging right-facing corner and up to the roof. Using the arête on the left surmount the roof and continue easily up to the Weed Eater anchors. Five bolts (mixed hangers and chain links)

Richard Kimberley, 1998

18
0
15m
Natural gear required
  The overhanging jam crack on the far right of the cliff, just left of the chimney. Strenuous. Hard to find anchors, but you can use large cams to the left.

Murry Judge, 1975

12
0
15m
Natural gear required
  Prominent overhanging chimney with double cracks. Very steep, but excellent bridging and good holds. Inclined to be wet. Limited anchor options, probably best to use a pillar about three metres right.

Lindsay Main, 1978

18
0
20m
Natural gear required
  Steep right-leaning crack two metres right. Step off a tree or start directly and swing around the bulge; finish up the crack and niche. Anchor to the pillar.

Joe Arts, 1998

Attribution: 
Information from Lindsay Main, Alan Hill, and Tony Burnell.
This place appears in: 
Rock Deluxe: South

Comments

Comments

Hi Grubbie, I note there was some comment about loose flakes etc, have climbed here about four times this year, the crag doesn't appear any worse than pre quake with the exception of the area around Rheumatoid Corner.
Also I replaced the anchor at the top of Roll Up, and two chains to lower off Bitterfingers.
The new route Swab the Deck, somehow didn't get into the right place in the text, maybe you can shift it.

You can shift the order in "children". drag the cross symbol on LHS of text up down.

Please note access changes, above.

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