Place info

Crystal Clearlight

(20 routes)

Excellent hard jamming can be had at Crystal Clearlight.A good day's outing can be had by combining classics on the two of them. The cliffs are on the west side of the spur which runs down to Diamond Harbour from Herbert Peak. The cliffs are close together, just below the top of the spur, overlooking Charteris Bay. The Fantasy Factory is the larger, more obvious cliff; Crystal Clearlight is a small overhanging cliff about 400m further south in a gully.
The cliffs are sheltered from easterly winds.
History
Mike Franklin contributed Black Bitch (16).
Crystal Clearlight also received attention from visitors, with Murray Judge contributing several climbs, and in 1976 Rick McGregor repeated the existing hard routes and added some more. In 1979-80, John Howard contributed the hardest routes on the cliff, *Hopping up the Mild Side (23)
Climbing Notes
Descent routes at each cliff are simply around either end of the cliff.

  • West

    Aspect

  • 20 min

    Walk in

  • 400m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
West
Altitude: 
400m

Excellent hard jamming can be had at Crystal Clearlight.A good day's outing can be had by combining classics on the two of them. The cliffs are on the west side of the spur which runs down to Diamond Harbour from Herbert Peak. The cliffs are close together, just below the top of the spur, overlooking Charteris Bay. The Fantasy Factory is the larger, more obvious cliff; Crystal Clearlight is a small overhanging cliff about 400m further south in a gully.
The cliffs are sheltered from easterly winds.
History
Mike Franklin contributed Black Bitch (16).
Crystal Clearlight also received attention from visitors, with Murray Judge contributing several climbs, and in 1976 Rick McGregor repeated the existing hard routes and added some more. In 1979-80, John Howard contributed the hardest routes on the cliff, *Hopping up the Mild Side (23)
Climbing Notes
Descent routes at each cliff are simply around either end of the cliff.

Access: 

!!Permission must me granted from 2 sources!!
1 the land owner. Zac Kyle, Please Text 0276041485, and only proceed on a confirmed reply.
2 the land you cross between Doris Faigan Ln, and the crag. Peter Nel 03-329 9116.
No access during September, as it is lambing season.
The usaul behavior applies, leave gates as found.
Walk through from public road, don't drive.
Leave the dog at home!

Walk time: 
20 min
NZMS260: 
M36 878283
Topo50: 
BX24 778 667
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
TH
16
0
15m
Natural gear required
  Climb the chimney for 4m, then traverse R beneath the nose (crux). Continue straight up.

Murray Judge '75

GN
17
1.02
17m
Natural gear required
  Start at the R-hand of two cracks and climb up on jugs. Exit through the roof. Sustained.

Murray Judge '75

Rd
20
1.02
17m
Natural gear required
  Up the steep weakness. The crux is an awkward and committing move into the R-leaning off-width.

Rick McGregor '76

Dt
22
1.02
17m
Natural gear required
  The L-hand of two corners in a recess. Up overhanging rock past two sets of horizontal jugs to good holds above.

John Allen '80

4A
21
1.02
17m
Natural gear required
  The R-hand corner. Awkward moves R into the hanging groove, then traverse R to finish up Tibrogargan.

John Howard '80

Tn
21
1.02
17m
Natural gear required
  The steep, shallow, R-leaning crack on the small arete. Exit R from the crack then back L and up the wall.

Rick McGregor '76

22
0
17m
Natural gear required
  Climb Paranoia Blues for a few feet, then move out L to a groove. From the ledge finish out L up Tibrogargan.

John Allen '80

PB
19
1.02
17m
Natural gear required
  The thin, overhanging crack. Most people have bridged to Bentley Jam Machine. Finish up B.J.M..

Rick McGregor '76

BM
17
2.01
18m
Natural gear required
  The prominent crack. Off-width at start (crux), followed by good jamming. Exit directly through the roof (18), or to the L (may be inhabited by a rat nest).

Daryll Thomson '75

20
0
18m
 
Up the wall between B.J.M. and Dreamtree Sequence. No pro.

Brent Davis

DS
16
1.02
18m
Natural gear required
  Up a wall and shallow chimney (crux), and then the crack through the roof.

Murray Judge '75

Gw
15
2.01
18m
Natural gear required
 
The prominent chimney

Mike Franklin '75

23
1.02
15m
Natural gear required
  This is possibly the worst name in the book. A steep fingery wall, with a good old traditional spike runner.

John Howard '80

BB
16
3
17m
Natural gear required
  A classic route with good jamming. The steep jam crack on black rock, starting at the fence. Hardest at the top.

Mike Franklin '75

ST
15
1.02
17m
Natural gear required
  Start at a thin crack on the wall. Take care not to lift the pro out. Move R to finish, or exit directly (16).

Tim Wethey '75

18
0
15m
Natural gear required
  Up the arete all the way.

John Barnes

CA
18
1.02
15m
Natural gear required
  The jam crack through the curving bulge. Either finish L, or directly up the steep crack (18).

John Barnett did the start ('75) Fred Fromm added the direct finish ('78)

20
1.02
12m
  The steep wall. Finish L . No pro, sustained.

Bill Atkinson

FW
12
0
15m
Natural gear required
  Mike Franklin '75

The corner. Awkward at the top.

TT
13
0
15m
Natural gear required
  Jam up a steep crack to a sloping ledge (crux). From the ledge continue R-wards. Eats big gear.

Rick McGregor '76

Attribution: 
Information by Lindsay Main; Previously hosted on website by John Davis
This place appears in: 
Rock Deluxe: South

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