Place info
Crystal Clearlight
(20 routes)
Information by Lindsay Main & Previously hosted on website by John Davis
Excellent hard jamming can be had at Crystal Clearlight.A good day's outing can be had by combining classics on the two of them. The cliffs are on the west side of the spur which runs down to Diamond Harbour from Herbert Peak. The cliffs are close together, just below the top of the spur, overlooking Charteris Bay. The Fantasy Fa ctory is the larger, more obvious cliff; Crystal Clearlight is a small overhanging cliff about 400m further south in a gully.
The cliffs are sheltered from easterly winds.
History
Mike Franklin contributed Black Bitch (16).
Crystal Clearlight also received attention from visitors, with Murray Judge contributing several climbs, and in 1976 Rick McGregor repeated the existing hard routes and added some more. In 1979-80, John Howard contributed the hardest routes on the cliff, *Hopping up the Mild Side (23)
Climbing Notes
Descent routes at each cliff are simply around either end of the cliff.
- West
Aspect
- 50
Walk in
- 400m
Altitude
Information by Lindsay Main & Previously hosted on website by John Davis
Excellent hard jamming can be had at Crystal Clearlight.A good day's outing can be had by combining classics on the two of them. The cliffs are on the west side of the spur which runs down to Diamond Harbour from Herbert Peak. The cliffs are close together, just below the top of the spur, overlooking Charteris Bay. The Fantasy Fa ctory is the larger, more obvious cliff; Crystal Clearlight is a small overhanging cliff about 400m further south in a gully.
The cliffs are sheltered from easterly winds.
History
Mike Franklin contributed Black Bitch (16).
Crystal Clearlight also received attention from visitors, with Murray Judge contributing several climbs, and in 1976 Rick McGregor repeated the existing hard routes and added some more. In 1979-80, John Howard contributed the hardest routes on the cliff, *Hopping up the Mild Side (23)
Climbing Notes
Descent routes at each cliff are simply around either end of the cliff.
Permission must me granted from 2 sources. 1 the land owner. Drew Davison 03-329 4809. 2 the land you cross between Doris Faigan Ln, and the crag. Peter Nel 03-329 9116. The usaul behavior applies, leave gates as found. Walk through from public road, don't drive. Lambing season is Setember & October, the answer may be no. Leave the dog at home!
| Reference | Name | Grade | Quality | Length | Comments | Actions | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
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16
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15m
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Climb the chimney for 4m, then traverse R beneath the nose (crux). Continue straight up. Murray Judge '75 |
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17
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15m
|
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Start at the R-hand of two cracks and climb up on jugs. Exit through the roof. Sustained. Murray Judge '75 |
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19
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15m
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Up the steep weakness. The crux is an awkward and committing move into the R-leaning off-width. Rick McGregor '76 |
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22
|
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15m
|
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The L-hand of two corners in a recess. Up overhanging rock past two sets of horizontal jugs to good holds above. John Allen '80 |
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21
|
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15m
|
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The R-hand corner. Awkward moves R into the hanging groove, then traverse R to finish up Tibrogargan. John Howard '80 |
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21
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18m
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The steep, shallow, R-leaning crack on the small arete. Exit R from the crack then back L and up the wall. Rick McGregor '76 |
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22
|
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20m
|
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Climb Paranoia Blues for a few feet, then move out L to a groove. From the ledge finish out L up Tibrogargan. John Allen '80 |
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19
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20m
|
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The thin, overhanging crack. Most people have bridged to Bentley Jam Machine. Finish up B.J.M.. Rick McGregor '76 |
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17
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20m
|
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The prominent crack. Off-width at start (crux), followed by good jamming. Exit directly through the roof (18), or to the L (may be inhabited by a rat nest). Daryll Thomson '75 |
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20
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20m
|
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Up the wall between B.J.M. and Dreamtree Sequence. No pro. Brent Davis |
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16
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20m
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Up a wall and shallow chimney (crux), and then the crack through the roof. Murray Judge '75 |
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14
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18m
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The prominent chimney. |
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23
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15m
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This is possibly the worst name in the book. A steep fingery wall, with a good old traditional spike runner. John Howard '80 |
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16
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15m
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A classic route with good jamming. The steep jam crack on black rock, starting at the fence. Hardest at the top. Mike Franklin '75 |
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15
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15m
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Start at a thin crack on the wall. Take care not to lift the pro out. Move R to finish, or exit directly (16). Tim Wethey '75 |
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18
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15m
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Up the arete all the way. John Barnes |
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17
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15m
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The jam crack through the curving bulge. Either finish L, or directly up the steep crack (18). John Barnett did the start ('75), and Fred Fromm added the direct finish ('78). |
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20
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10m
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The steep wall. Finish L . No pro, sustained. Bill Atkinson |
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12
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15m
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The corner. Awkward at the top. Mike Franklin '75 |
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13
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15m
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Jam up a steep crack to a sloping ledge (crux). From the ledge continue R-wards. Rick McGregor '76 |
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