Place info

Kaik Wall

(15 routes)

An impressive wall, above Akaroa.

  • West

    Aspect

  • 20min

    Walk in

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
West

An impressive wall, above Akaroa.

Access: 

Go up lighthouse Rd.
Drive uphill for about 3km.
Park by the road walk uphill to the crag. on the same hieght as Brasenose but further right.

Walk time: 
20min
NZMS260: 
n37 078071
Topo50: 
BY25 978 455
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
18
0
Natural gear required
  At the LH end and up is a small face with a R-L trending elbow crack.Gain the crack at the elbow and follow. Climb the skyline block/face initially in the middle, then the L edge.

Jon Veronese & Alan Hill 2005

16
0
Natural gear required
  A few metres R. Up the wide zig-zag crack , move R to avoid summit block and finish up a series of corners.

Alan Hill 2001

13
0
Natural gear required
  Start to the R at the foot of the crag. Climb the wide corner crack to finish as for SRO

Alan Hill, Michael & Jon Veronese 2005

17
0
Natural gear required
  5m to the R. Up the blocky groove and short steep corner Move L at bushes, any way to top.

Alan Hill & Richard Kimberley March 2001

22
1.02
Natural gear required
  Climbs the next corner some 5m to the R (NOT the big corner!) Start between these 2 corners and up a crack to the slab below large triangular OH at 10m. Move L and up corner past shrub. Move up and R along flake (crux).

Alan Hill March 2001

21
1.02
Natural gear required
  Start as for NRFTW, but continue directlty up past a flake and ramp to a short steep crux up final corner.

Alan Hill, Michael & Jon Veronese 2005

25
0
7X bolts
  Starts at the left side of the crag, below an obvious corner. Climb the initial wall (soft rock) and move up the slab above to the foot of the corner. Clip the second bolt and climb the steep wall above to a rest on the blunt arête out left. Awkward moves on small and sloping holds get you to another resting position. Move up again on good holds to the sixth bolt, the route rears up and the right facing corner is climbed direct to poor holds, an inelegant mantle gets you to the last bolt. Finish easily to the belay. Tony Burnell
20
1.02
5X bolts
  Climb up to the first bolt on “No Rest For The Wicked”, traverse right to the arête and the second bolt. Clip the bolt and move round right to climb the bulge. Move up to the second roof, clip the bolt on the lip round right to climb the bulge, continue straight up a steep red groove step slightly right at the top. Up again to the final bolt on top of a pedestal before finishing easily up to a single bolt belay.

Tony Burnell

20
0
Natural gear required
  20m R of SC. Climb through square notch to the L of the overhang. Traverse R-wards to the reverse C, wide crack then R-wards to the rib. Climb past the orange face finishing up a corner with a white spot on the L, on easier but less protected climbing.

Richard Kimberley

26
3
5X bolts
  The line of 5B to the R of the overhang.

Richard Kimberly

21 ,21
1.02
4X bolts
Natural gear required
 
  1. Start just by a hanging garden 2m of the ground. Step R at the flax, follow groove and crack past bolt on L. Move R to belay below overhang R of the tree.
  2. Move up L-wards past 2B finishing up the corner.

Richard Kimberley

21 ,24
2.01
6X bolts
Natural gear required
 
  1. AS for IOYO. 1.Start just by a hanging garden 2m of the ground. Step R at the flax, follow groove and crack past bolt on L. Move R to belay below overhang R of the tree.
  2. Continue directly through small roof past 4B.

Richard Kimberley

25
3
8X bolts
Natural gear required
  Just right of the central crack line is a hanging garden and immediately to its right a weakness penetrates the initial roof. Pull up into the groove using a concretion which forms a hole in the rock (BR) move left under a bulge on poor holds to gain a line of grooves (BR). Climb the initial groove past a wire slot (BR at top). Continue up the crack line friends and wires before exiting onto ledges and easier climbing long run out to BR. Step right then back round left and climb straight up past the bolt, easier climbing to good friend placements below the steep wall and the crux of the wall. There are three bolts on the wall, start at the bottom left and get established in the groove, hard climbing diagonally across the face to the arete, pull up awkwardly and gain a standing position below the steep arete above (BR). Move first left then swing right to an exposed position on the arete, finish up this to easier climbing. Tony Burnell
25
3
8X bolts
Natural gear required
  Twin Ropes are pretty much essential. Just right of ‘Running on Empty’ start behind the flax bushes and just left of a black groove. Climb the steep initial wall (BR) to a hanging groove that backs off after a couple of moves, good wires at the base of the groove. Move up onto a slab (BR) and continue to where the wall steepens (BR). Move up the steep wall to the base of a short steep groove (BR). Hard moves get you into the groove, friend placements in crack at back, (BR) on right wall at top of groove. Move out right into an exposed position on the rib (BR). From a standing position on the rib move up on good holds, but handle with care, friend placement and spike runner. Move left to a bottomless short groove (BR) climb the groove and the rib / arete above past good friend placements and a final bolt runner before summiting out at the top of the crag. Tony Burnell
24
3
10X bolts
Natural gear required
  Climb the bolted groovr to the R of the ledge. Go L-wards past a small roof at the 5th bolt.. Carry on over the next overlap to good pro then through the 2nd overlapand flake face.

Richard Kimberley.

Attribution: 
Parts from Linsay Main & Tony Burnell
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