The quiet sunny side of Brewster culminates in a 500-700m summit massif, offering at least three aesthetic ribs of moderate alpine rockclimbing on good schist, dissected by a large snow couloir (Summer rockfall funnel) and narrower gullies. However, in a case of 'play now-pay later', the steep ribs are topped by lower angled ground comprised of large blocks. Though blocks are more locked in than they appear looks and the movement is not difficult, care must be taken in both route and hold choice when scrambling the upper face to avoid loose blocks and natural rockfall zones. The ribs are generally prominent enough to avoid natural rockfall, and early summer may be ideal to top out via snow travel rather than loose blocks.
Approach up the Wills Valley up the track to the lower flats, the follow spurs in open bush on the true left of Fleming Creek (plentiful water in bush sidecreeks). Easy subalpine travel leads to the base of the North Face, where moderate angle snowfields/patches linger into summer. 5-8 hours from the car, or 3-4 hours from Wills Hut.
Descent: The obvious descent is via the West Ridge, brewster Glacier and the Brewster Hut track, making a nice loop. Descending to the cols either side of .2038 before moving onto snow and the glacier keep snow travel to low angle, and may allow crampon-less descent in warm conditions, at least from midsummer when the ridge is dry rock. However, ice axes are wise in case of snowfields/patchs at the base of the north face, and on the upper face.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| CR | Central Rib | 16,4,III | 350m |  |