A Couple Of Days.

This is an all ice route climbed in late winter. A gully on the Little South Face was climbed, 10 pitches of grade 4 and then route 2 was descended into the upper névé to access the main South Face. The route on the South Face takes a series of ill defined gullies right of the summer route. After about 6 pitches there is a sixty five degree snowslope, 2 pitches. Three pitches from the summit a steep rock corner is climbed on ice with good rock protection. This leads onto a steep arête then up a gully and onto the summit snow slopes finishing just right of the summit. Sixty metre ropes were used. Three bivvies were had, one at the base of the Little South Face, another in the bergschrund at the bottom of the South Face and one on the Maud Francis Glacier.