Skip to main content

Mt Russel

Type
Mountain
Altitude
1868m
Part of

tba

Lat/lon
-42.84850251,171.65257931, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BV20 899 551
Image

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Deception River Spur, 1 1 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 1

Approached via the heavily wooded spur that ascends from the Deception River. This spur is on the true-right of the stream that drains the amphitheatre under its summit. Very ugly best describes this route


 East Face (The Last Bush Ranger), III,3,13,2+ III,3,13,2+ 300m
0

Aim for the northern corner at the base of the east face and scramble low angle slabs to the bottom of a gut between Mt Russel and its north east outlier. Climb left out of the gut to gain broader slabs and trend straight up, passing a small overlap on the left via a slab with thin moves (first crux). Ascend more easy slabs to where the rock steepens before trending right via a vague ledge system and the second crux before the angle eases off again. Ascend the remaining slabs directly to the summit. Crux sections around Ewbank grade 12-13 with the remainder of the route mostly grade 10. Generally sufficient protection but you have to work to find it.

Descend Mt Russel via the west ridge to approximately halfway between Mt Russel and pt1689 to low point on the ridge. Descend south via scree and ledges back to scree field south west of Mt Russel.

Access: Best approached via the Good Luck Creek route out of the Deception River. Cross Mt Franklin west ridge at accessible low points, then under or on the Aicken Range towards Mt Russel.


  • P1
  • 13
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+
  • 300m
  • Trad


 From Lower Deception, 2 2 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 2

Approached from the lower Deception Valley by ascending Midday Creek and its slide. Bear south towards the saddle above Spray Creek and then onto Mt Russell via one very exposed section of rotten ridgeline.


Add Place Add Route
Comments
UUID
 
b0c59c46-784d-4571-94d1-5f1ca997a4b1