Place info

Unwin Crag

(4 routes)

A craggy outcrop up behind Unwin Hut. “Secret Squirrel” the 2 pitch climb offers an alternative to Red Arete when its busy, although harder & obviously shorter. Be good to get some traffic on the track to get it more established and confirmation of grades. Would appreciate feedback.

  • North West

    Aspect

  • 20min

    Walk in

  • 900m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
North West
Altitude: 
900m

A craggy outcrop up behind Unwin Hut. “Secret Squirrel” the 2 pitch climb offers an alternative to Red Arete when its busy, although harder & obviously shorter. Be good to get some traffic on the track to get it more established and confirmation of grades. Would appreciate feedback.

Access: 

There is now a marked track to Unwin Crag & takes about 20 mins. Walk behind Unwin Hut, cross the fence and head along the base for 75m to a large cairn. Head up the faint gully then work up and R. Traverse to the clearings until well right of the crag before heading up. Tyhe tape mentioned on the photo does not exist.

Walk time: 
20min
NZMS260: 
H36 776 126
Topo50: 
BY15 676 510
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
1
16
1.02
28m
9X bolts
  Crux bolt 6 to 7 up smooth slab between edge & crack: This climb has a DBB lower than the other 2 routes.

Ray Button & Dave Alderson. 22/1/11

2
16
0
25m
9X bolts
  Crux trend left at 7th bolt (Ray) but other people seem to find crux around 3rd bolt.

Ray Button 9/4/2012

3
15
0
23m
8X bolts
  Easiest of the 3 routes. Bigger and more postive features.

Ray Button 2012

4
15 ,13
1.02
54m
16X bolts
 

DB anchors. The rap from the top of P1 is 30m.

  1. Starting in the centre of the wall trend left towards the arete on a variety of side pulls and flakes. The start can seep but you can clip the bolt and then start up further left.
  2. A short pitch on easier climbing towards and on the arete and a spacious belay ledge.

Ray Button 15/12/2012

Attribution: 
Ray Button
This site is a beta version.