Place info

Gledhill Buttress

(11 routes)

Mainly rock routes above the Noeline Glacier.

  • West

    Aspect

Type: 
Face
Aspect: 
West

Mainly rock routes above the Noeline Glacier.

Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
4 17
2.01
Natural gear required
One or more images in route detail.
 

Started up the toe of the Buttress initially and then moved left into the corner after 20m. Continued up the corner then up the middle of the upper slabs and traversed back right to cross the roof line in the upper wall. They mistook this for the Gledhill Buttress.

The first two pitches climbed were in the corner just left of the buttress, they then moved right onto slabs between the corner and the buttress traversing r to cross the roofs that are left of the prow.

Phil Castle, Carol McDermott , January 1985

4 18
0
3
  Head up the Terminator and then straight up the slabby buttress above

Jeremy Strang, Dave Vass, Dec 1988.

4+ 18
1.02
One or more images in route detail.
6
  Start climbing up the prow of the buttress, then continue up the slabby buttress above keeping well right of the corner. Move right to climb roofs R of the prow. Twelve pitches of excellent sustained rockclimbing (crux 18, also pitches of 16).

Hamish Dunn, Rob Staszewski, Feb 1985

4 17
0
1
  Start right of the prow of the prominent buttress. Easy angled climbing leads up right into a corner and deep ugly gully. A crux near the top of the gully (two possible options, both grade 17) is followed by 200m of scrambling to the summit.

Alan & Geoff Gledhill, Feb 1973. Direct variation start: Zane Williams, Bryan McArthur, Jan 1980.

3+ 14
0
  On the buttress rib right of the Gledhill and Terminator, (crux 14, but might be harder), limited protection.

Adrian Daly, Brendan Wilson, Jan 1988.

3+ 14
0
  Starts 70m right of the Gledhill line near a waterfall. Climb face to overhang, then up groove and steep gully, and follow a rib to the top. Excellent rock, (possibly involves th Ton & Bill Route).

Matt Perchad, Garry Phillips, Feb 1996.

2
0
  Ascend the couloir and rock steps between the two summits. This is a standard ascent and descent route. There are a considerable number of variations, especially to the left of the couloir.

Freda Du Faur, Alex Graham, Peter Graham, Mar 1912. Bill McLeod, Mark Taylor, Aug 1992.

0
  The southern wall of the Noeline Glacier can be gained at various points and although the upper portion has been climbed often, the ridge does not appear to have been climbed in its entirety. Excellent rock buttresses are found on the lower ridge.
3 16
0
  The obvious buttress clearly visible from Gardiner Hut on the western end of the West Ridge of Nazomi. Climb the north side of the buttress using the obvious left facing corner for three pitches, turning two large roofs on the left. Move onto broken slabs of the west face through an overhanging ‘V’ slot on the NW ridge (crux 16). Easy scrambling along the ridge then leads to a point above a large snow slope leading down the north side to the Noeline Glacier descent route.

Steve Upton, Mike Morrissey, Jan 1983.

4 15
1.02
  Gain the buttress from the Hooker Glacier below the Hooker Icefall 300m of hard climbing on excellent rock (crux 15), which is reportedly far better than the McInnes Ridge, that leads to lesser angled rock which a confident party can climb unroped. To descend, walk off the top of the second buttress down the Noeline Glacier.

Aat Vervoorn, David White, Nov 1972. Bill Denz, Jun 1973.

4
0
  Starting from the lower Hooker Glacier beside the stream from the Mona Glacier, climb the first buttress, then onto the second buttress of good rock (with a 50m cheval) and up to the “Gnome”, from where a short descent leads onto a small glacier below the final wall. An escape route exists to the left round to Gardiner Hut. Otherwise straight up variable rock to the summit ridge. This section can often be iced up.

Hamish MacInnes, Peter Robinson, Feb 1955.

Attribution: 
Alex Palman
This place appears in: 
Aoraki Mount Cook: a guide for mountaineers

Comments

Comments

Time for a topo...

This site is a beta version.