Reference: 
NR
Type: 
Alpine
Pitch: 
# Alpine
(Commitment)
Alpine
(Technical)
Alpine
(Mt Cook)
Ewbank Aid Water Ice Mixed Boulder
(Hueco)
Length Bolts Trad
10040000m0Y
 From the upper Sheila Glacier head up the rib to the left of Fyfe’s Gut - the narrow couloir directly below the saddle. It is possible to climb Fyfe’s Gut but watch for dangerous stonefall. The route comes out above Green Saddle. Then up three prominent steps on the North ridge, the last and more difficult ‘Beare Step’ being turned via either a steep hand traverse or an abseil into a couloir on the Sheila Face. It is also possible to bypass the 'Beare direct' by a rock variation on the face to the left at about Grade 14 (Whimp/Tweedie). A classic route used for the first ascent of Aoraki/Mt Cook. It was descended by at least four parties on early ascents but this is not recommended. Green Saddle can also be accessed from the Grand Plateau: Ascend to Green Saddle from the Linda Glacier (schrunds can be problem late in the season). First ascended from the Linda Glacier by Harry Ayres, Oscar Coberger, Dec 1951.
First ascent: 
Jack Clarke, Tom Fyfe, George Graham, 25 Dec 1894.
First ascent: 
Beare Step: Marty Beare, Nick Cradock, Neal Whiston, crux 18/19, 4+, protection awkward, Mar 1982.
First ascent: 
Winter: Murray Judge, Dick Price, Aug 1978. Beare Step: Bill McLeod, Peter Dickson, Jul 1991. as an extension of FWA of the full Bowie Ridge
Quality: 
1.02
Grade: 
4
Length: 
0
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
Natural pro?
Gone: 
No
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