Place info

Aoraki Mt Cook Middle Pk

(3 routes)

Appprox 1 km south of the high peak

  • 3717m

    Altitude

Type: 
Mountain
Altitude: 
3717m

Appprox 1 km south of the high peak

NZMS260: 
H36 795 298
Topo50: 
BX15 695 682
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
4+
0
  Ascend a rock rib directly below the Middle Peak which leads to steep snowfields between the prominent icecliff under Porter Col and the icecliff on the Hooker Face.

Kevin Conaglen, Andy Harris, February 1983

3
1.02
  From the Upper Empress Shelf, ascend snowslopes and gain a short steep gully to the right of a large icecliff which leads to the col between the Middle and Low Peaks. This is a regular descent route (but often requires abseils on the first steep section). There is usually a schrund just above the col beneath the Middle Peak which is suitable for bivouacs (‘Middle Peak Hotel’, was the scene of Mark Inglis and Phil Doole’s epic fortnight survival in 1982).

Tom Fyfe, George Graham, December 1894; R Krauer, Kobi Bosshard, August 1963 (via upper Empress Shelf on skis)

4
1.02
  A classic ice climb, perhaps the finest in New Zealand. The East Ridge joins Aoraki’s summit ridge about 200m south of Middle Peak. The lower section of the ridge can be gained at a number of points. The conventional routes are: i) From Cinerama Col, avoid the first 200m via the Plateau side, then head up slopes to gain the ridge. Follow the arête on up. ii) Via the shelf below the East Face gain a snow ramp leading out left onto the ridge below a rock step before a prominent level section on the ridge (This section can be gained directly from the shelf). Beyond the level section, follow up the winding arête that merges into the upper Caroline Face and finishes near the Middle Peak. Ice on the upper section of the route is often hard.

Dan Bryant, Lud Mahan, January 1938; Colin Monteath, Richard Schmidt, Steve Anderson, Greg Mortimer, July 1979

Attribution: 
Alex Palman
This place appears in: 
Aoraki Mount Cook: a guide for mountaineers

Places

Actions
Face East Face (5 routes)
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