Type: 
Mountain
Altitude: 
3160m

Tba

NZMS260: 
H36 796 341
Topo50: 
BX15 696 725
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
4
0
  A short route of steep snow and ice, which unfortunately tends to act as a funnel for any rubbish falling from the surrounding slopes.

Rob Rainsbury, John Visser, Jan 1971 (Descended

5
0
  From the Abel Janszoon Glacier ascend steep, loose rock and steep snowfields (which may not exist later in summer) reaching the ridge 200m west of the summit.

Bill Denz, Geoff Gabites, Mike Perry, Aug 1977.

3+
0
  A steep, but relatively straightforward route involving 200m of snow, a 70m leftward traverse, and then a couloir to the summit ridge.

Alan Berry, J M Davie, Hugh Tyndale-Biscoe, I R Wood, Jan 1954 (Descended).

4
1.02
  Access onto the ridge varies. Starting from Katies Col ascents have been made on the northern side of the lower buttress (the first ascent in 1907) and up the ridge itself from the col. The best routes, though, involve skirting round onto the snowfields above the Balfour Glacier and either ascending a snowslope onto the ridge above the first step or ascending the first prominent rib falling south-west from the ridge. Then follow the winding arĂȘte and rock steps to the summit.

Alex Graham, Henry Newton, Ebenezer Teichelmann, Feb 1907.

3+
0
  Ascend the glacier on the Katies Col side of the rib until confronted by a 200m rock step. Climb the step near the crest (crux) and follow the snow arĂȘte to the summit. A variant, Torres Forres, follows the same general line but takes an ice gully above and left of the suspended snowfield, rejoining the main route above.

Alan Berry, J M H Davie, I R Wood, Hugh Tyndale-Biscoe, Jan 1954. Torres Forres variant, G McKinnon, J Taylor, M Scott, Feb 1997.

WI5 M5
0
One or more images in route detail.
 

WI4, WI3+, WI3+, WI5, WI3, M5

The South Face, from the Balfour Glacier. 6 pitches

Daniel Joll, Alex Corpas, 2012

III 4 4
0
One or more images in route detail.
  The south face of the west rib, from the Balfour Glacier. Six pitches to the ridgeline. First two pitches are the crux with vertical bulges, then progressively easier climbing to the top.

Brendan MaggsKirill Talanine, August 2012

Attribution: 
Alex Palman
This place appears in: 
100 Peaks
Aoraki Mount Cook: a guide for mountaineers

Places

Actions
Face North Face (2 routes)
Face South Face (4 routes)
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