Place info

Mt Alack

(3 routes)

All the ridges, except the North Ridge, which is reportedly very loose, provide pleasant short climbs from Pioneer Hut.
Frank Alack, H K Douglas, W E Wilson, Dec 1934
George Harris, G Hasler, T Choate, Ian McGregor, Aug 1966.
South Face
Over the years several short ice routes have been climbed. Who actually climbed – and recorded them – first, is somewhat unclear. Here are a couple:

  • 2759m

    Altitude

Type: 
Mountain
Altitude: 
2759m

All the ridges, except the North Ridge, which is reportedly very loose, provide pleasant short climbs from Pioneer Hut.
Frank Alack, H K Douglas, W E Wilson, Dec 1934
George Harris, G Hasler, T Choate, Ian McGregor, Aug 1966.
South Face
Over the years several short ice routes have been climbed. Who actually climbed – and recorded them – first, is somewhat unclear. Here are a couple:

NZMS260: 
H36 833 370
Topo50: 
BX16 733 754
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
16
1.02
  A steep slab of rock, west of Alack, above the Cleves Glacier, offers good crag climbing. It gained notoriety and a name when Graeme Dingle and others climbed it for a TV crew during the 70’s (one pitch; crux 15/16).

Graeme Dingle and others

0
  Six pitches of 50–60° ice.

Paul Wopereis, A Taylor, February 1985

4+
0
  A direct seven pitch line to the summit. The first three pitches are on the icefields and the next four are on the upper wall. A good short technical climb that involves some mixed ground (Alpine Ice 4).

Nick Cradock, A Marquis, December 1996

Attribution: 
Alex Palman
This place appears in: 
Aoraki Mount Cook: a guide for mountaineers
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