Place info

Mt Dilemma

(5 routes)

Getting off Dilemma:
The easiest way off Dilemma avoids the East Peak and rotten rock. From the West Peak scramble down the eastern edge of the Strauchon Face for 150m, then drop down a diagonal ledge system to snow 100 metres below. If the ledges are snowed up, abseil from the first notch between West and East Peaks, anchors in-situ (grade 2). Traverse across and up to a rock gendarme on the Main Divide, 100m north of Beatrice. Follow a snow ridge on the western side, passing under rock on the divide. At a rock rib that cuts westward, climb back to the divide, crossing it, and descend on the Hooker Valley side, traversing below the divide. This cross-over point is crucial. Continue along the crest over broken rock to Baker Saddle. It is also theoretically possible to rappel the Direttissima Route. This is not recommended as it would take all day and the bolts could be difficult to find, especially at night.
Other options: If descending from Beatrice, drop onto eastern snow slopes (go south first if necessary) and continue along snow to Baker Saddle.

  • 2602m

    Altitude

Type: 
Mountain
Altitude: 
2602m

Getting off Dilemma:
The easiest way off Dilemma avoids the East Peak and rotten rock. From the West Peak scramble down the eastern edge of the Strauchon Face for 150m, then drop down a diagonal ledge system to snow 100 metres below. If the ledges are snowed up, abseil from the first notch between West and East Peaks, anchors in-situ (grade 2). Traverse across and up to a rock gendarme on the Main Divide, 100m north of Beatrice. Follow a snow ridge on the western side, passing under rock on the divide. At a rock rib that cuts westward, climb back to the divide, crossing it, and descend on the Hooker Valley side, traversing below the divide. This cross-over point is crucial. Continue along the crest over broken rock to Baker Saddle. It is also theoretically possible to rappel the Direttissima Route. This is not recommended as it would take all day and the bolts could be difficult to find, especially at night.
Other options: If descending from Beatrice, drop onto eastern snow slopes (go south first if necessary) and continue along snow to Baker Saddle.

NZMS260: 
H36 751 273
Topo50: 
BX15 652 656
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
2+
0
  Via Baker Saddle and Mt Beatrice, climb l00m of steep rotten rock to the East Summit. The ridge to the West Peak involves exposed scrambling on better rock.

East Peak (2594m): Hugh Chambers, Peter Graham, Dorothy Holdsworth, Jan 1914. West Peak: Tom Fyfe, Conrad Kain, Mar 1914.

Attribution: 
Alex Palman
This place appears in: 
Aoraki Mount Cook: a guide for mountaineers

Places

Actions
Face Strauchon Face (4 routes)
This site is a beta version.