This heavily pocketed ignimbrite crag is all about ‘pulling down’, with easily accessible, well-bolted routes across the grade range. Waipari is home to several of the North Island’s most difficult climbs and boulder problems. It’s also an easy place for climbing groups with different levels of ability, and for kids. If you bring strong fingers, lots of skin and a good attitude you are almost guaranteed a great day at the crag.
Spring and autumn are best, but you can climb year-round. Summer can be hot and humid but some shady routes can usually be found, and dry winter days can provide good friction.
Take a sport rack, maybe some trad gear, and a 50 or 60m rope.
From Wharepapa South drive west down Seafund Road and left into Whatauri Road. After about 1km the road drops down a short hill. Just before the base of the hill there is a sign to Waipari and a farm gate. Sign in at the gate before continuing for 500m or so to the car park.
- Sign in at the front gate
- Follow the signs on gates (open or closed) and latch them carefully
- Use the toilets
- Take all your rubbish with you
Consider joining the Friends of Waipari to get involved in replanting, weed clearing and other projects to improve this crag.
Donate to ACAT’s Waipari fund to support improving access and the crag environment. ACAT is a registered charity so all donations are eligible for a 33% tax credit.
Places
| Type | Name |
|---|---|
| Sector | Hold On to Your Face Wall |
| Sector | Bete Noire Wall |
| Sector | Heavenly Wall |
| Sector | Main Cliff |
| Sector | Echo Gully |
| Sector | Red Block Area |
| Sector | Slug Wall |
| Sector | Bulge Gully |
| Sector | Animal Biscuit Valley |
| Sector | Little Spurt Wall |
| Sector | Bring Your Daughter Wall |
| Sector | Honey Comb Wall |
| Sector | Moon Boulder (Dark Side) |
| Sector | Moon Boulder (Australia Face) |
| Sector | Opel Faces |
| Sector | Da Cave |
| Sector | The Beer Garden |
| Sector | Pupuke Boulder |
