Place info

K2

(16 routes)

K2 is fearsomely steep overhanging crag that rises out of the bush above
Whangamata bay. It is a riolite cliff with a fully welded conglomerate layer
which produces large holds and makes climbing at this angle possible.
The crag is situated on the eastern side of Whangamata’s (Kinloch) bay
eastern peninsula and about 800m from the lake. It is not the series of lake
side cliffs that can bee seen from the Kinloch beach.

  • North West

    Aspect

  • 50-60min

    Walk in

  • 460m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
North West
Altitude: 
460m

K2 is fearsomely steep overhanging crag that rises out of the bush above
Whangamata bay. It is a riolite cliff with a fully welded conglomerate layer
which produces large holds and makes climbing at this angle possible.
The crag is situated on the eastern side of Whangamata’s (Kinloch) bay
eastern peninsula and about 800m from the lake. It is not the series of lake
side cliffs that can bee seen from the Kinloch beach.

Access: 

Walking (or better still Mountain bike): - Take the Mountain bike track “W2K”
that goes right past Kinloch crag and up onto Boujomdel Crs, continue along
the W2K mountain bike track up the hill and out onto Whanagamata
Peninsula. After about 30-40 minutes you come to a large pine tree
plantation (with views of lake). From here continue along the track for
another 10 minutes till you reach a rough track heading down the hill and
marked with cairns. If you come to a point in the track that folks around a
tree, you have gone to far, head back 300m. Take the rough track down the
hill to the crag, (Track not suitable for Mountain bikes)
By boat - Head out into the bay, about 2 km from Kinloch, and on the left
hand side is a small beech just past the lake side cliffs. Just up from the
beach is a small cliff & cave with a few steep boulder problems. Head round
the right-hand side of the cliff where you’ll find a rough track. The track
leads up the hill to the base of the crag. Routes are described from left to
right. The large roof at the left hand end has the following lines.

Walk time: 
50-60min
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
22
2.01
10m
6X bolts
  Climb the left side of the face to the roof, pull through the roof on large holds. 6 Bolts DBC belay.

Berdon Elimger, Stephen King Jan-09

25
1.02
10m
6X bolts
  Climb the right hand side of the face. Delicate moves up to roof (some soft rock) then big moves through roof, moving left and finishing up Puka Master.

Stephen King 4-Jan-09

21
0
10m
 

Dan

20
0
20m
 

Dan

25
2.01
25m
7X bolts
  Climb the left hand side of the lower pinnacle past 2 bolts. From the top of the pinnacle clip the bolt/chain (it has now been lengthen for her pleasure), then blast through the steep ground. The angle then eases and the holds get smaller. Climb to the left of the small roof (crux) then top out moving right. DB belay. (Pro: 7 Bolts, 1 Large hex or cam optional between 2nd and 3rd bolt)

Cliff Ellery, Kevin Barratt, & Stepehn Barratt , 29-Nov-05

22
2.01
25m
8X bolts
Natural gear required
  Climb the right hand side of the lower pinnacle. From the top of the pinnacle traverse right, then at the 4th bolt pull through the overhang and into the right facing corner. The steep climbing may be over but the crux is the delicate bridging higher up. Move left at the top of the corner (bolt out on left face). Climb the arete and face above to the DBC belay of SMS (Pro: 8 Bolts, 1 medium hex or 2 friend between 2nd and 3rd bolt)

Cliff Ellery, Stephen King , 30-Nov-05

24
2.01
25m
8X bolts
  Climb the conglomerate layer to the right of the buttress then move onto the top of the buttress and the large ledge. From here move up the steep wall past 3 more bolts (difficult) then traverse right into the small corner. Climb faint corner and arete system, the crux is at last bolt. (Pro: 8 Bolts & DBC belay)

Cliff Ellery, Kevin Barratt, 31-Sep-06

24
3
30m
10X bolts
  Climb the steep overhanging face on big jugs. Climb through the lip (crux) and into the left facing corner. Continue up corner moving right at the top. 10 Bolts TBC belay

Cliff Ellery, Stephen King 4-Jan-09

0
4X bolts
  First 4 bolts of “The New Black” then move right up face.
24
2.01
25m
5X bolts
  The jury is still out on this one, it may be 25. Climbs the steep bulgy ground to the left of the arete. Difficult start up the corner then easier climbing through the steep and bulgy ground. At the 4th bolt move right via a difficult sequencing including jamming the horizontal break, crux. You may be through the crux but the climbing doesn’t let up, continuing up the steep ground above till you can step right onto the arete.

Rick McGregor, Bryce Martin & Cliff Ellery, 11-Jan-06

23
2.01
25m
Natural gear required
  Climb through the steep bulge & crack, moving right onto the large ledge. Climb the corner crack then move into the hanging corner and crack system out left. Gear can be placed high in the right arching crack and flake before making this move. Climbing the step little corner with an awkward mantel onto the ledge followed by a delicate move to stand up on this ledge. Place a 4 friend up high in the shallow parallel sided scoop, then move up and into the chimney. Easy climbing to the belay. A must for the trad climbing guru, double ropes recommended. (Pro: CD x 2 , W)

Cliff Ellery, Kevin Barratt Feb-06

26
2.01
25m
6X bolts
  Far right-hand end of main cliff. 2 bolts to large ledge system. From the ledge move right to 3rd bolt then back left past 4th bolt (crux) to easier ground. Tricky climbing to roof then traverse right under roof, to arete and DB belay.

Stephen King- 18 Jan 09

17
0
20m
Natural gear required
  A very hard move to get established in corner and crack system (22). May need stand on a handely places boulder or log to negate start move. Follow corner through a couple of bulges to a tree belay. Belay and rapel off tree. This line was lead on site so it is a little dirty in places, but is cleaning up nicely. (Pro. Trad)

Stephen Barratt, Kevin Barratt 29-Nov-05

16
1.02
15m
6X bolts
  Start in the middle of face then traverse out to left arete. Climb through steep ground and onto face just left of arete. Climb arte and face to top. DBC belay. (Pro. 6 bolts-staples)

Cliff Ellery and Jess Dobson Oct-08

17
2.01
15m
6X bolts
  Start at the right-hand end of the face then climb up bulgy ground past 3 bolts then more left around roof and onto head wall. Climb head wall moving right to arete and up to DBC belay (Pro. 6 bolts-staples)

Cliff Ellery, Jess Dobson & Dylan Oct-08

20
0
20m
Natural gear required
  Crack just right of Fire Starter. Poorly protected start moves lead to easier climbing higher up. Belay off trees. (Pro. Trad)

Stephen Barratt, Kevin Barratt 29-Nov-05.

This site is a beta version.