Kinloch has about 30 high-quality easy to moderate climbs on solid rhyolite with easy access. It gets the sun late morning, so in winter afternoons are best while in summer you can spend the afternoon swimming after a morning climbing.
Climbing started at Kinloch in October 1991 when Mark Jones along with others based at the Tiho Venture school started to develop the area.
The crag has been developed with an effort to minimise the visual and physical impact of climbing. Native trees have been preserved and some hangers are painted.
Climbs on the right-hand end are in the open while the left-hand end is tucked away in the bush. When you arrive at the crag most people park their bags adjacent to the large right-facing corner of Where to From Here, just right of a small boulder that has a selection of belay bolts. The next section of cliff is 10m to the left tucked away in the bush.
The crag is part of Whangamata no 3 block which is Māori freehold land.
The right end of the cliff has been identified as wāhi tapu - the climbs “Buckets in the Belfry", "Where to from here?" and "Waiting for the Ant" are closed. Please do NOT climb these routes as this will jeopardise access to the crag.
Once you have reached the settlement of Kinloch, drive straight past the golf course veering slightly right onto Marina Terrace then left down Keitha Place. Park your car at the far end of Keitha Place. The crag is a minute's walk from here.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Wine Trail | 15 | 10m | ||||
Working Holiday | 16 | 12m | 5 | |||
Cherry Blossom | 18 | 22m | 6 | |||
Les Femmes et les Grimpeurs d'Abord | 19 | 15m | 6 | |||
Ben’s a Tree Hugger | 16 | 6 | ||||
Wait Until Tomorrow | 17 | 20m | 6 | |||
There’s Wetas in my Porridge | 13 | 12m | ||||
The Elephant Goes Toot | 17 | 30m | 7 | |||
Holiday Mode | 19 | 15m | 4 | |||
From the Editor | 15 | 20m | 6 | |||
Billy Bob | 18 | 15m | 5 | |||
Cerebellum | 20 | 19m | 7 | |||
Hidden Treasure | 19 | 22m | 12 | |||
Walking on Sunshine | 16 | 22m | 11 | |||
Slabasaurus | 13 | 10m | 5 | |||
Avalanche | 11 | 20m | ||||
Tunnel Web Tread | 14 | 19m | ||||
Stab of the Stonekeeper | 21 | 10m | 6 | |||
Terminal Stillness | 17 | 8m | ||||
No one | 23 | 18m | 8 | |||
Romancing the Haggis | 21 | 17m | ||||
Rockness Monster | 17 | 17m | ||||
Highland Cling | 18 | 15m | 3 | |||
Electric Wizard | 20 | 15m | 4 | |||
Crystal Enquiry | 18 | 15m | 1 | |||
Buckets In The Belfry | 17 | 15m | 5 | |||
Where to From Here | 16 | 15m | ||||
Waiting for the Ant | 14 | 7m | 3 | |||
Summer at the Beach | 14 | 10m |