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Kinloch (K1)

Type
Altitude
400m
Part of

Kinloch has about 30 high-quality easy to moderate climbs on solid rhyolite with easy access. It gets the sun late morning, so in winter afternoons are best while in summer you can spend the afternoon swimming after a morning climbing.
Climbing started at Kinloch in October 1991 when Mark Jones along with others based at the Tiho Venture school started to develop the area.
The crag has been developed with an effort to minimise the visual and physical impact of climbing. Native trees have been preserved and some hangers are painted.
Climbs on the right-hand end are in the open while the left-hand end is tucked away in the bush. When you arrive at the crag most people park their bags adjacent to the large right-facing corner of Where to From Here, just right of a small boulder that has a selection of belay bolts. The next section of cliff is 10m to the left tucked away in the bush.

Image
Walktime
1
Aspect
North West
Lat/lon
POINT (175.92021 -38.672712)
Topo50
BG36 541 155
Access

The crag is part of Whangamata no 3 block which is Māori freehold land.
The right end of the cliff has been identified as wāhi tapu - the climbs “Buckets in the Belfry", "Where to from here?" and "Waiting for the Ant" are closed. Please do NOT climb these routes as this will jeopardise access to the crag.
Once you have reached the settlement of Kinloch, drive straight past the golf course veering slightly right onto Marina Terrace then left down Keitha Place. Park your car at the far end of Keitha Place. The crag is a minute's walk from here.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
Wine Trail 15 10m
0
Working Holiday 16 12m 5
1.02
Cherry Blossom 18 22m 6
1.02
Les Femmes et les Grimpeurs d'Abord 19 15m 6
1.02
Ben’s a Tree Hugger 16 6
0
Wait Until Tomorrow 17 20m 6
1.02
There’s Wetas in my Porridge 13 12m
0
The Elephant Goes Toot 17 30m 7
2.01
Holiday Mode 19 15m 4
1.02
From the Editor 15 20m 6
1.02
Billy Bob 18 15m 5
1.02
Cerebellum 20 19m 7
0
Hidden Treasure 19 22m 12
2.01
Walking on Sunshine 16 22m 11
1.02
Slabasaurus 13 10m 5
0
Avalanche 11 20m
0
Tunnel Web Tread 14 19m
0
Stab of the Stonekeeper 21 10m 6
0
Terminal Stillness 17 8m
1.02
No one 23 18m 8
0
Romancing the Haggis 21 17m
1.02
Rockness Monster 17 17m
0
Highland Cling 18 15m 3
0
Electric Wizard 20 15m 4
2.01
Crystal Enquiry 18 15m 1
0
Buckets In The Belfry 17 15m 5
2.01
Where to From Here 16 15m
1.02
Waiting for the Ant 14 7m 3
1.02
Summer at the Beach 14 10m
0

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