Place info

K1

(19 routes)

Kinloch is not a very large crag with less than 20 routes in total,
however offer a great days climbing with easy access and suburb easy to
moderate climbs. It gets the sun late morning so in winter the afternoon is
best while in summer you can spend the afternoon swimming after a
mornings climbing.
Climbing first started at Kinloch in October 1991 when Mark Jones along
with others based at the Tiho Venture school started to develop the area.
The crag has been developed with an effort to minimise the visual and
physical impact of climbing. Native trees have been preserved and naked
bolts used on the most visible parts of the cliff, so bring along your key hole
hangers or a set or wires.
The main Cliff is split in two, with the climbs on the right hand end being out in the
open while the left hand end of the cliff is tucked away in the bush. When you arrive
at the crag most people park their bags adjacent to the large right facing corner of
Where to From Here just right of a small boulder that has a selection of belay bolts.
The next section of cliff is 10m to the left tucked away in the bush.

  • North West

    Aspect

  • 400m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
North West
Altitude: 
400m

Kinloch is not a very large crag with less than 20 routes in total,
however offer a great days climbing with easy access and suburb easy to
moderate climbs. It gets the sun late morning so in winter the afternoon is
best while in summer you can spend the afternoon swimming after a
mornings climbing.
Climbing first started at Kinloch in October 1991 when Mark Jones along
with others based at the Tiho Venture school started to develop the area.
The crag has been developed with an effort to minimise the visual and
physical impact of climbing. Native trees have been preserved and naked
bolts used on the most visible parts of the cliff, so bring along your key hole
hangers or a set or wires.
The main Cliff is split in two, with the climbs on the right hand end being out in the
open while the left hand end of the cliff is tucked away in the bush. When you arrive
at the crag most people park their bags adjacent to the large right facing corner of
Where to From Here just right of a small boulder that has a selection of belay bolts.
The next section of cliff is 10m to the left tucked away in the bush.

Access: 

Once you have reach the settlement of Kinloch drive straight past the golf
course veering slightly right onto Marina Terrace then left down Keitha Place.
Park you car at the far end of Keitha place. The crag is a 1 minutes walk from
here. The rock is riolite and very solid and the routes are generally all high
quality.

NZMS260: 
T18 641 771
Topo50: 
BG36 541 155
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
15
0
10m
Natural gear required
  The obvious crack at the far left hand end of the crag. DBC Belay.

Allan Kane, Richard Dunn, Robyn Wayne, Nov -1991

16
0
12m
5X bolts
  Climb the face past 5 bolts and a DBC belay.

Bryce Martin, Craig Martin 21/7/97

14
0
12m
Natural gear required
  Climb the prominent crack line to DBC Belay.

Allan Kane, Richard Dunn, Robyn Wayne, Nov -1991

19
0
15m
Natural gear required
  The face and arete immediately right of the crack line of There’s Wetas in my Porridge. Climb past 3 bolts then onto the top ledge, continue up easy ground to the DBC belay of There’s Wetas in my Porridge.

Bryce Martyn, Jo Willet 2-June-92

15
0
20m
Natural gear required
  The obvious groove at the right hand end of the wall. Then climb the corner and head wall, D.B.C belay. (Pro 3 bolts, Wires )

Pete Manning, Jo Willet, Bryce Martyn, 2-June-92

11
0
20m
Natural gear required
  On the Left hand side of the Right Hand Wall. A deep crack studded with stumps. Steep at first then angles off at the top and another bolt chain belay. (I haven’t been able to find this climb so can only conclude that it has been swallowed up by the bush)
14
0
19m
Natural gear required
  Immediately left of the overhanging flake. The crack and face above, a little over grown these days. TBC belay.

Mark Jones, Sally Rowe – Oct 1991

21
0
8m
2X bolts
  Takes the flake and over hang directly up the middle. Pull over onto the face above then continue up to the DBC belay out right. [Pro 2 Bolts].

Mark Jones Oct 1991.

17
1.02
8m
Natural gear required
  Just to the left is a large flake , the route up the right hand side. A superb route up the right-hand crack of the flake. Protection is good round the flake then one bolt in the face. Belay at the chains or keep going to the higher belay of Tunnel Web Spider. (Pro CD, Wires)

Mark Jones, Sally Rowe – Oct 1991

23
0
16m
3X bolts
  The bolted route up the shallow corner immediately left of the arete.
21
1.02
17m
Natural gear required
  Either start out right or do the pleasant little boulder problem start straight up the arete. Clip the peg then continue up on easier ground till you reach the finger crack proper, a cool head is required and a few micro cam placements can be found. Pleasant climbing up the crack to the DBC belay ledge of Rockness Monster. [Pro: Small & Med CD, W]

Mark Jones, Allan Kane –Oct 1991.

17
0
17m
Natural gear required
  Climb the obvious corner straight up and over the bulge. This is the crux but it is well protected with fail safe bomber wire placements. Continue up the groove above. Move left near the top and finish on the large belay ledge. DBC belay and the protection is good if you take your time arranging it. [Pro: CD, W]

Mark Jones , Sally Rowe Oct 1991.

18
0
15m
3X bolts
  Climb the face and blunt arete. Pull over the bulge then continue up the face and arete to the belay of Electric Wizard. [Pro 3 bolts].

Mark Jones, Allan Kane – Nov 1991.

20
0
15m
4X bolts
  Climb up the face left of the corner to the small roof, pull through the roof, crux, then continue up the face. After the top bolt you can either escape out onto the left arete or move over right, both are difficult and both are much of a much ness grade wise. 4 Bolts and a DRB belay.

Mark Jones – Nov 1991.

18
0
15m
1X bolts
Natural gear required
  Climb up the steep right facing corner then through the small over hang, crux. Continue up the crack and groove system above, then break out left higher up onto the head wall (bolt) and the DRB belay of Where to From Here. The gear placements are a little difficult to arrange but sound. [Pro: CD, Hex, W, 1 bolt].

Mark Jones, Allan Kane – Nov 1991.

17
2.01
15m
5X bolts
  The bucket strewn arete just left of Where to From Here. Easy climbing onto the ledge then launch up the arete past 5 bolts , the crux is in the middle to top section. Shares the DRB belay of Where to From Here.

Mark Jones, Allan Kane – Nov 1991.

16
1.02
15m
Natural gear required
  The large right facing corner. Climb the corner crack system at about grade 14 to the large intermediate ledge. Then continue out left round the arching roof crack. A secret hold provides salvation. DRB belay. (Pro, CD, Hex, Wires)

Allan Kane, Richard Dune, Oct 1991

14
1.02
7m
3X bolts
  An awkward start move leads to easy climbing up the middle of the face past 3 naked bolts then mantle onto the large ledge (crux) and belay off the DBC belay. One of the nicest 14 around.

Richard Dunn , Robyn Wayne, Nov-91

14
0
10m
Natural gear required
  The small corner groove at the far right hand end of the crag . Climb the slab & arete then pull over the small overhanging section onto the slab above. From this point climb the twin crack’s in the head wall and belay further back in the bush, DRB bealy. (Pro CD, Wires, Hex)

Richard Dunn , Robyn Wayne, Nov-91

Places

Actions
Boulder Main Cliff Bouldering (6 routes)
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