Place info

Cracks Wall

(16 routes)

Cracks Wall is the most convenient of the crags, being two minutes from the lake, toilet and campsite. The trad climbing here is excellent with a number of high quality cracks in a tranquil location making this crag the first choice for most climbers. The rock stays shaded till midday.

  • West

    Aspect

  • 500m

    Altitude

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
West
Altitude: 
500m

Cracks Wall is the most convenient of the crags, being two minutes from the lake, toilet and campsite. The trad climbing here is excellent with a number of high quality cracks in a tranquil location making this crag the first choice for most climbers. The rock stays shaded till midday.

Access: 

From the lake walk back towards Kinloch for 1 minute to where a rock cairn marks the track leading up to the crag. The track meets the crag at the base of Rohans Arete, a great place to hang.

NZMS260: 
T18 599 780
Topo50: 
BG35 498 164
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
14
0
15m
Natural gear required
  Start in the corner near the Kanuka tree. Traverse right near the top and finish up T.S.M [Pro CD, W]

Heather Brockway 23-10-05

18
0
12m
Natural gear required
  Four meters left of Jabba the Hutt. Climb the steep hand crack (crux), then traverse right for protection. Finish up arête past the swarm of bees. Tree belay walk off to the Left.

Gerard Tarr, Mr Colorado Jan 2012

17
1.02
15m
Natural gear required
  The obvious hand crack. [Pro CD]

Stephen King, Cliff Ellery 6-8-05

18
0
18m
Natural gear required
  Starts at the Five Finger. The left trending layback that turns into a right trending flake. Finish up the face, protection a bit thin near the top. [Pro CD,W]

Matt Thom 23-10-05

23
0
19m
8X bolts
  Continuously technical climbing in the lower half will have you singing for jugs.

Gerard Tarr Jan 2013

17
2.01
20m
Natural gear required
  Fun climbing up the right tending crack system. Finish right onto ledge. [Pro CD to size 2 , W)

Matt Thom, Kevin Barratt 6-8-05

24
1.02
20m
7X bolts
  The steep and scooped face to the left of Flake. Crux is moving past the 3rd and 4th bolts. [Pro 7 bolts]

Stephen King 24-10-05

18
3
20m
Natural gear required
  The flake/crack system with a small roof near the start. Once at the roof move right around the roof and onto the face, the moves above mark the crux. From here easy climbing to the DBC belay. Great moves with a balancy and well protected crux. [Pro SCD, CD to size 1.5, W].

Stephen King 28-8-05

18
0
25m
Natural gear required
  The long open book corner. Start up the slab with no gear until you reach the corner go left just below the top to a small ledge to belay.

Stephen King 30-7-05

20
0
27m
10X bolts
  Climb the face to the left of the crack [10bolts]

John Dawkins 23-8-06

17
0
28m
Natural gear required
  The left hand crack line. Poorly protected through the crux.

Matt Thom 30-7-05

16
3
28m
Natural gear required
  The right hand crack system 3 meters left of the arête. Save your big gear for the top section. An excellent climb. Tree belay. [Pro SCD, CD,W]

Stephen King 3-10-04

22
3
28m
11X bolts
  The long arête at the right-hand end of the crag. Stay right of the bolts. DBC belay. Wicked climbing.

Stephen King, 23 October 2004

25
0
20m
7X bolts
  Climb the face right of the arete. [7 bolts]

Martyn Owen 27-8-06

20
0
12m
Natural gear required
  Climb the thin crack up to the slab & DBC belay. [Pro Mid to small CD ,W] Climb the thin crack up to the slab & DBC belay. [Pro Mid to small CD ,W]

Stephen King 17/9/06

16
1.02
12m
4X bolts
  Up to the right is a short arête. A good little climb. Stays shaded till long after the other climbs are in the sun. [Pro 4 Bolts]

Heather Brockway 28-8-05

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