Christmas Crag- Torepatutahi Reserve
Introduction
This crag, though it did show a few signs of possible climbing activity in the
past, was brought back into the lime light by a few Taupo locals including
Steven King and Kane Fleur. The crag offers both bouldering and roped
climbing on top notch Ryolite. Due to a temporal focus on bouldering, the crew
focused their energy at the other end of the gorge and managed to put up a
number of excellent boulder problems. The main cliff section, however,
remained mostly ignored until Matt Natti and Fionn Claydon, two Palmerston
North locals, decided to focus their energy on developing the area over their 3
week Christmas break in the summer of 2006. After the initial tracks were
cleared and a few of the "classic" lines had been clean and bolted, the crag
quickly took on a life of its own as more and more people jumped on the
"development band wagon."
As many of the climbs are on short bits of rock with good landings they lend
themselves more to bouldering. The guide is split into 2 sections, climbing at
the front with boulder problems near the back. Most climbs listed have double
chain belays on top.
Gear
The crag has a mix of Trad and sport routes. A standard trad rack and 10 quick
draws will get you up most routes
A recommended rack is given for each line. Trad gears is given as
SCD = Small Cams. Smaller than 1 Friend.
CD = Set of Camming devices, size 1 to 4 Friend or equal (+½ sizes)
W = A full set of wires.
Access
From Taupo
From state highway 1 in downtown Taupo, head up Spa Rd and bear right (just
before the spa park turn off) onto Tauhara Rd heading towards Rotorua and
Reporoa. Stay on this road the 1km past Broadlands turn right down East rd
(No road sign).
From North
Drive to Rotorua then take state highway 5 south to Taupo. Stay on state
highway 5 till you pass the Reporoa Dairy Factory then turn left to Reporoa. At
the round about turn right down Broadlands road. 5 km down the road turn left
on to East rd on you left.
From East Rd
4.8 km down the road past the golf course, veer right then take the turn off,
immediately after crossing a small one lane bridge, where there is a small DOC
sign (again, on the left side of the road) for the Torepatutahi Reserve. The
cliffs are located at the end of this dirt road.
Places
| Type | Name |
|---|---|
| Sector | Left End |
| Sector | Christmas Crag |
| Sector | Right Hand End |
| Sector | Boulder Problems |
Cannot drive to crag down dirt road as council has closed it due to suspicious activity. 10min walk in now.
Crag has been taken over by huge rose bushes. Could only access climbs between Middle Age Mix and Cyclopean Nightmare (17/3/2018). Take long pants and a hedge trimmer!
Very cool Bouldery climbs but track needs some help.