Place info

Maratoto

(11 routes)

Introduction
With tonnes of exposure and fantastic surrounds Maratoto makes for a great
days climbing. If you make the effort to venture up to the base of this
impressive looking rock feature you will be rewarded with some classic sports
routes in an amazing location. Maratoto means river of blood and was
named after a Maori battle. The block was mined at the early 1900’s with some
relics still visible. The first climbing occurred in the 70’s with an aid route on the
top tier, however there is very little details about who did this route or where it
goes. The crag was rediscovered by Dean Maxswell in 1996 and with the help
of John van der Warff the pair set about, clearing a track, cutting steps,
cleaning rock and placing over 200 bolts. This mammoth effort took place over
a couple off summers and often saw the pair camped out at the cave bivvy at
the base of the crag for weeks on end. The crag faces south west so gets
the late afternoon sun.
Gear.
You will need up to 15 -18 Quickdraws . A couple of the routes have Trad gear
(Cams and wires) but most are sport.

  • South West

    Aspect

  • 386m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
South West
Altitude: 
386m

Introduction
With tonnes of exposure and fantastic surrounds Maratoto makes for a great
days climbing. If you make the effort to venture up to the base of this
impressive looking rock feature you will be rewarded with some classic sports
routes in an amazing location. Maratoto means river of blood and was
named after a Maori battle. The block was mined at the early 1900’s with some
relics still visible. The first climbing occurred in the 70’s with an aid route on the
top tier, however there is very little details about who did this route or where it
goes. The crag was rediscovered by Dean Maxswell in 1996 and with the help
of John van der Warff the pair set about, clearing a track, cutting steps,
cleaning rock and placing over 200 bolts. This mammoth effort took place over
a couple off summers and often saw the pair camped out at the cave bivvy at
the base of the crag for weeks on end. The crag faces south west so gets
the late afternoon sun.
Gear.
You will need up to 15 -18 Quickdraws . A couple of the routes have Trad gear
(Cams and wires) but most are sport.

Access: 

Access
The Maratoto road is situated on the Thames-Paeroa road (SH 26). From
Thames bridge drive 16kms past old Maratoto road till you come to Maratoto
road on your left, or from Paeroa take the road to Thames and after 10km to
15km you will come across Maratoto road on the right. Drive up Maratoto road
for about 10 km and park on the bend directly beneath Maratoto. The track
can be a bit hard to find, either walk up the road 250m to a small culvert (drain)
scramble down to the river and pick up the track up from here, or cross the
paddock and river by the car park then climb the hill moving right until you pick
the track up. A 30 minute walk up the hill step in places brings you to the base
of the cliff (allow an hour you’ll probably get lost a couple of times).

Attribution: 
www.freeclimb.co.nz. Hosted By Cliff Ellery. Written by John van der Werff & Cliff Ellery

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Actions
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