The long wall further south from the Southern Bluffs and buttresses visible from the TASC Lodge. As a result of lava flows cooling on contact with ice, the crag has horizontal columns and blocks in the steep orange rock of the Fire and Ice area. Explored extensively during the NZAC Summer Camp at TASC January 2015 by the Garrity family and others. Offers full-pitch, moderate trad routes at either end of the crag on blocky ground, and a couple of bolted lines in the middle. With scope for more routes with some appealing lines on the steeper, smooth orange rock, this crag promises to be a nice lower-grade complement to the Wall of Sound. Boulders on top allow anchors to be built back from the edge (long slings or old ropes) but be aware of kicking scree and rocks on those below.
From the TASC Lodge, walk around the base of the Southern Bluffs.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Captain Barnacle Bottom's day off | 14 | 25m | |||
2 | Fast | 17 | 25m | |||
3 | Mossy Groove | 15 | 25m | |||
4 | Climb on John | 16 | 25m | |||
5 | Old Man's Climb | 16 | 25m | |||
6 | Slow | 14 | 25m | |||
7 | Stayin Alive | 16 | 25m | 2 | ||
8 | My Father's Friends | 16 | 25m | |||
11 | Captain Hook | M4 | 25m | |||
12 | Pleasant Thrutching | 17 | 20m | |||
13 | The Comeback Kid | 17,M3 | 20m | |||
13a | Stinging Riccardo | 23 | 18m | 6 | ||
14 | Modern Arrangement | 18 | 15m | |||
15 | TASCbar | 19 | 15m | 6 | ||
16 | Fire and Ice | 18 | 15m | 5 | ||
16a | Flight of the Condors | 23 | 12m | 5 | ||
17 | Funbeat | 15 | 20m | 3 | ||
18 | Kingdom of the wicked | 15 | 25m | |||
19 | Doom | 15 | 25m | |||
20 | To the moon for the Kennedys | 14 | 25m | |||
21 | An Alpine Adventure | 16 | 25m | |||
22 | Theive in the night | 21 | 30m | 2 | ||
23 | Caddys Corner | 21 | 30m | 1 | ||
24 | A Little Frisky | 18 | 30m | 3 | ||
25 | One Step To The Left And One To The Right | 19 | 35m | |||
26 | Flake Crack | 19 | 30m | 1 | ||
27 | Hat Trick | 18 | 35m | 2 | ||
28 | Quick March | 20 | 35m | 2 | ||
29 | Volcanologist delight | 17 | 35m | 3 | ||
30 | Schist lovers delight | 17 | 35m | 2 |
My view Dave it probably more related to the way esp in the N.I in the past sometimes 6 people would be credited in the FA listings which was obviously not possible.
Cragrat is not old school not giving credit to others on the first ascent. Old school is giving the credit!
Fair enough Simon, edits made. Rich totally stole the gear route off me though!
Rick - any thoughts on the other routes /grades?
Okay - I might be old school but I am of the view that the second person on a F.A should not be listed as the F.A. Obviously the belayer is important as is the equipper if not the F.A person but on a single pitch only 1 person can climb the pitch first...
The cliff is also known as Margaret's Landing (after the ski-field's named feature Margaret's Leap above it).
In reply to The cliff is also known as by Kiwiclimber
Margaret's Landing is the gully south and beyonf Tascmaster wall. You pas by Tascmaster wall on the way to Margaret's landing. The area did have that name for an hour or two untill the confussion was sorted.
Fire and Ice routes have 10mm x 75mm true bolts, with 2-ring anchors. To reach these anchors safely from the top of the crag, use the access route around to the left and then build an upper anchor by slinging boulders.