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Marg Arete

Grade
7
Length
190m
Natural pro required
Quality
2.01
First ascent
David Garrity (solo)
Located on
Topo ref
0

This route is an ideal family outing being of low difficulty and relatively
unexposed. It is about 5 full pitches or a large number of shorter pitches.
THere is plenty of scope for natural protection, but there are areas that are
not protected. The rock is excellent quality. This arete climb starts low
down and on the south side of the the stream draining Margaret Landing.
Descending into the base using the natural walking line that traverses from
the TASCMaster wall. It is a low arete, almost a fin of rock, that climbs
high into the Margarets landing basin. It terminates on top of a small
pinnacle at the southern side of the head wall of the Margaret's Leap circ.


  • P1
  • 7
  • 40m
  • Trad

Start just left of the waterfall. Up slabs tending right to the crest, then follow


  • P2
  • 7
  • 40m

Continue to follow arete to "pass" the gives you good access to "Master Angus Wall"


  • P3
  • 7
  • 40m

A little steeper now on cleaner rock. You have a chevel option, or just traverse on leges to the south.


  • P4
  • 7
  • 40m

Continue on the arete. Exposure increases slightly. Pitch finishes at the notch before the final pinnacle


  • P5
  • 7
  • 30m

Choose your route through the steep exit wall of the notch dependent upon your skills. Follow the rib upto the top of the pinnacle.


  • P6

Descent can be done by abseil of the top to the pinnacle on the uphill side (or to the north if you want a bigger abseil). Can scramble down easily enough. Best descent down the mountain is on the broken ground/slabs to the north or the arete.


Comments
UUID
 
daa6eff0-d1c1-4ffb-84fa-c884a5517bb9