Place info

Whakapapaiti Cirque

(5 routes)

This rarely-visited and little-known ice climbing location (part of which was formerly known as the Barium Enema Face) has some premier routes when well-formed. Although slightly farther to walk, it is still relatively low on the mountain. The main face was discovered by Peter K Dickson in 1987, and developed by Dickson, Alex Palman and the late Dave Gurr the following year. More routes were added in 2007 on the left side of the cirque by James Russell and Joseph Nelson: http://www.mountainz.co.nz/content/article/article.php?article=260707_ba...

  • West

    Aspect

  • 45 min

    Walk in

  • 1900m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
West
Altitude: 
1900m

This rarely-visited and little-known ice climbing location (part of which was formerly known as the Barium Enema Face) has some premier routes when well-formed. Although slightly farther to walk, it is still relatively low on the mountain. The main face was discovered by Peter K Dickson in 1987, and developed by Dickson, Alex Palman and the late Dave Gurr the following year. More routes were added in 2007 on the left side of the cirque by James Russell and Joseph Nelson: http://www.mountainz.co.nz/content/article/article.php?article=260707_ba...

Access: 

The cirque is reached after about three-quarters of an hour’s walk west from the bottom of the Far West T-bar on the Whakapapa Skifield, at around 1900m. Grid ref 293129. Ice forms on shady southwest-facing aspects beneath broad, sunny snowfields. The bluffs can’t be seen from above – approach by sidling from below. The first routes are in a sunnier location on the left of the cirque; for the others continue on into a small lava canyon where a distinctive cave with a high, arching roof is prominent on the left side. It is possible, but by no means necessary, to camp in this cave.

Walk time: 
45 min
NZMS260: 
T20 293129
Topo50: 
BJ34 192 512
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
1
WI2
0
20m
  On the left side of the cirque, this is not really a technical climb, but a good warm-up. Follow the left slope up to an obvious chute. It is possible to finish directly over the top, but the left chute provides a challenge of solid ice, which can be well protected.

Joseph Nelson, James Russell, 15 July 2007

2
WI2
0
12m
  Climb the obvious central line on the face on the left side of the cirque. The crux is the vertical lower third.

James Russell, Joseph Nelson, 15 July 200

3
WI3
1.02
25m
  The large, steep flow to the right of the cave.

Peter K Dickson, 1988

4
WI4
1.02
25m
  Sustained vertical climbing with a short freestanding section at mid-height. Alex Palman took a six-metre fall on the first ascent.

Alex Palman, 1988

WI3
0
15m
  This route is on a separate flow further right.

Alex Palman, 1988

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