Place info

Southern Bluffs

(11 routes)

These cliffs, unsurprisingly, are to the south of the car park, towards the Whangaehu valley.

  • South East

    Aspect

  • 20-40 min

    Walk in

  • 1800m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
South East
Altitude: 
1800m

These cliffs, unsurprisingly, are to the south of the car park, towards the Whangaehu valley.

Walk time: 
20-40 min
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
WI3
0
25m
One or more images in route detail.
  Forms fairly regularly, although the ice can be marginal and – as the names suggests – chandeliered. Several options exist. It has a short life so get in early if it is formed.
WI2 M2
0
30m
One or more images in route detail.
  Wide gulley right of Chandalier. Up series of rock and ice steps. Early season route before it banks out

Lincoln Quilliam, Matt Wilkinson, Adam Power, 05/07/15

M3
0
60m
  A good mixed winter route. Two pitches on sound rock, grade 8–10.

Don French, July, early 1990s

0
20m
  Straightforward with a steep finish, but quite honestly not that flash.
1.02
60m
  Another good two-pitch mixed line, if anything better than Central Buttress.

Don French, July, early 1990s

16
0
20m
Natural gear required
One or more images in route detail.
 

On a small outlier buttress to the north of the French pillars.
Passed through a couple of overhangs with soem good exposure.
Belay on gear. Walk off by scambling up and to the right.

Don French, Jozef Crosland, Helen Chapman 5/1/2015

M4
0
35m
One or more images in route detail.
  Mixed route straight up face a few meters right of 'Camp 2015' overhang. I think more like M3+

Adam Power, Matt Wilkinson 05/07/15

15
1.02
60m
Natural gear required
One or more images in route detail.
 

This users the rock to the right of the "Pilier Français" arete.
1st Pitch climbing up on good holds. Good protections. The rock is fasinating. It looks loose, but you find exceptionally solid and takes gear well. Belay before it steppens.
2nd pitch. Continue to climbing directly up finally joining the arete truely. Belay just before the final section. Can belay here or finish it off.
3rd pitch. After a step, scamble to good belay
Exit by traversing north and descending easier ground north of "Camp 2015"

Don French, Helen Chapman 3/1/2015

16
0
26m
5X bolts
Natural gear required
One or more images in route detail.
  Up the wide corner system 5m right of the waterfall. Starts up the flinty-looking slab, going straight up or angling in from the right. Then into the clean left facing corner for a few moves, then stepping right into the main corner system and heading straight up. 5 bolts plus a couple of trad placements - medium wires and cams handy. Take a long sling for a belay bollard a few metres back from the top.

Tom Wilson, Simon Williamson, May 2015

15
0
20m
Natural gear required
One or more images in route detail.
  About 50m right of "Splish Splash". Up the loose looking weakness. Good placements all the way and the rock is a lot better than it looks. Belay off large boulders at the top.

FFA Eric Duggan 11/04/2015

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