Place info

Northern Bluffs

(12 routes)

These are the cliffs across the valley from the car park. The obvious ice lines have been climbed, but there is potential for some very difficult climbs to be completed. The first three routes are on the shorter left-hand section of the bluffs. Much potentual for good rock climbs, but some of the lava layers are shattered

  • South East

    Aspect

  • 20 min

    Walk in

  • 1700m

    Altitude

New Zealand map
Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
South East
Altitude: 
1700m

These are the cliffs across the valley from the car park. The obvious ice lines have been climbed, but there is potential for some very difficult climbs to be completed. The first three routes are on the shorter left-hand section of the bluffs. Much potentual for good rock climbs, but some of the lava layers are shattered

Access: 

Best approach is to descend to just under the prominate waterfall, then climb out to base of the cliffs.

Walk time: 
20 min
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
WI2
0
20m
Gone
  The left-hand line.
0
20m
  Another line just to the right.
WI2
0
20m
Gone
  Climb the right end of the wall, just before the cliff-line lengthens.
0
50m
  A steep initial section opens into a basin and a bouldery headwall. Holds ice well, although this can't be seen from the road.
WI4
1.02
50m
One or more images in route detail.
  More committing. A steep first pitch up to easier ground. A second pitch up a steep (vertical) ice lead eases off onto a slab, and right to easy ground.
16
0
40m
Natural gear required
One or more images in route detail.
 

Start to right of buttress, moving left onto the buttress & follow up, generally just left of the crest. The rock is a lot more solid than it looks, but there maybe the occassional loose block. Belay at point where turns to tallus. Exit by scrambling up for a while then descending gut to west.

Don French, Jozef Crosland 5/1/2015

WI2
0
One or more images in route detail.
  Fairly straight forward climb near the northern end of the Northern Bluffs. Short steep section before easing off into bowl above.
WI6
0
50m
One or more images in route detail.
  This forms very briefly went he sun is at a low angle. A superb challenge on very steep ground. Grade a guess

beleive to be unclimbed

WI1
0
20m
One or more images in route detail.
  left corner of wide basin half way along Northern Bluffs. Short

unknown

M2, M2
1.02
60m
One or more images in route detail.
 
  1. Buttress left of Gully One. Climb buttress trending left. Fund mixed route. Climb snow fan to left of Gully One, with difficult step onto mixed ground
  2. Climb through snow fields varying left with steep step to finish on upper snow fields.

Oli Touhy, Callen Kennedy 15/7/2007

M3
0
40m
One or more images in route detail.
  Face about 20ms left of the southern buttress. Ascend up through steep face. Some loose rock which can get frozen into place

Ollie Touhy, Callen Kennedy 29/7/2007

M4, M2
0
80m
 
  1. Start just to the south of the toe of the buttress left and below of Gully One. Up Left facing corner onto lead that basically goes straight up tending slightly to the left. A number of steps befor angle eases. Belay
  2. Continue to trend up and leftward on snow fields at first with a couple of steps which provide some interest.

Don FrenchMyles Parry

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